Roof sealer, any ideas (1 Viewer)

elizabethh7802

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Mar 7, 2012
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When we bought our mh we discovered lots of leaks (it is our first home and we had no idea to look at when we bought it but that is another story!) all of which we seem too have solved except around one of the roof lights. We have re-sealed it with the weather mastic but our damp metre is still reading 38. I guess one option is to change the roof light but another idea is to seal the roof if possible. Is there a product that you can paint on the roof to seal it? If not, any ideas what we can do to try to find the leak and solve it.
Thanks for any help.
liz
 

Swiftroy1

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Have you removed the rooflight and put a new bed of mastic or run a new bead of the squirtable type?
 
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elizabethh7802

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Mar 7, 2012
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Haven't removed the roof light, so we will do that next. We hoped the new mastic externally would solve problem.

Is there a roof sealant you can buy, it would be handy to know anyway.

Thanks for the reply.

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Swiftroy1

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Jan 3, 2010
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I'm afraid there are no shortcuts to keeping out the dreaded damp but it's a reasonably straightforward job. My van is 17 years old and aluminium skinned and I too was about to source a sealer paint for a section of my van roof which I think could have become porous. I'll let you know if I find a suitable one.
 
May 10, 2012
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Haven't removed the roof light, so we will do that next. We hoped the new mastic externally would solve problem.

Is there a roof sealant you can buy, it would be handy to know anyway.

Thanks for the reply.

The sealant my son used on his bus conversion is made by SOUDAL called fix all classic, he has done all seals and reset roof lights. No leaks so far.
 
Jun 2, 2010
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I think you ought to remove the roof light and leave it out for while to let any moisture that will be trapped in the roof laminate escape or evaporate, you have probably sealed in the moisture that was originally there.

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Oct 15, 2007
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Don't know if it's any use to you guys but, in RV land you can get an Elastrometric Roof paint, made by Hengs, I beleive there are others, designed to paint on pretty much anything. You put on a few coats, east west and north south with typically a roller, brush where necesary though it can be sprayed.

Used it on our first, rather leaky RV, and that was that:thumb:

We'd resealed all the roof vents, and gone round with lap sealant on joints and perforations, she was 28 years old at the time (still going according to DVLA at a mear 35 years) and as said no more leaks.

Ebay, or more specifically RVSpares (motorhome medic) tend to have it as well as Starspangledspanner.

You end up with a slightly mottled effect in bright white with a rubbery texture, cleans easy and is designed to bounce back some of the suns heat.

If you check it out, be seated at the time, it ain't cheap but to quote a certain add, it does exactly what it's say's on the tin:thumb:
 
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elizabethh7802

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Mar 7, 2012
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Thanks for the replies.
Ours is 17 years old too so I would be interested to know how you get on.
We have used the Soudal sealant and it has worked brilliantly on the other leaks but we are still having problems with this one roof light.
 

Willy Bippet

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Sep 4, 2012
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Dodgy ....
You said that your old MH was still going at 35 years according to DVLA

Is that info available to anyone then?

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highwayman

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Jul 31, 2007
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Hi Elisabeth
Remove the rooflight, carefully clean away all the old sealant and put a bed of sikaflex down. the tape type or from a gun, clean away the excess and the job's a good-un :thumb:




cheers nige
 

pappajohn

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I agree with Gooney......you've sealed in the damp and thats what your meter is detecting, and it could be weeks or months before it dries out fully

still worth removing the roof light and resealing with Sikaflex sealant.

usually easy enough.

remove the internal screws and lift away the inner trim and blind/screen then lift off the out part of the vent.....it will be stuck but careful use of a paint scraper will free it.

clean off the old sealer, ensure the roof is dry and apply a new thick bead of sikaflex to the roof opening and refit in reverse order cleaning off any excess before it cures.

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jimmysingh

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reply

you can use a tile out side of that area with a good Link Removed to make it work probably
 

scotjimland

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Jul 25, 2007
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Just shows the power of Google Jim.

yeah.. I guess so Dave

maybe this explains..

outback camper van :roflmto:

Shed.JPG
 

deanroofing

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Try Cromapol comes in 5 litre tins, very flexible, we just carried out a contract on Luton Airport with it, no need to remove the Rooflight just seal round it.

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rainbow chasers

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Oct 30, 2009
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You will never seal a leak like that. The sky light needs to be removed, the old sealer needs to be removed, and cleaned and new non drying bedding sealer applied and then refitted.

I'm afraid the only way is the proper way as anything else will just waste your time and money and potentially make it worse.

There are 8 Screws to be removed inside. Unscrew these.

The 'bottom' half of the skylight will come down - set aside.

Gently push the frame of the top half - if may start to come away easily. If not, up on the roof and prise it away from the body Gently.

Once removed, use a flat blade driver to remove old and gunky sealer, and then clean with white spirit/thinners to remove residue.

Put a bead of non drying bedding sealer around the skylight - you will see a narrow 'track' where it should go.

Pop it back over the apeture, go back inside and reattached the lower half. Put the screws in OPPOSITE and EQUAL so that the skylight comes down LEVEL. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN - 'Pinch' it so that it is held, Remove excess from roof-top, and clean around the edge using white spirit.

Leave overnight for a 'skin' to form, and retighten in the morning so that it is firm, but not torqued up. Check for any more excess that has been squeezed out.

Done! Repeat every three years. Same method applies to side body rails, windows etc.

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mid4did

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Sep 29, 2012
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started in a minivan 1970's when I could fit into it.
You will never seal a leak like that. The sky light needs to be removed, the old sealer needs to be removed, and cleaned and new non drying bedding sealer applied and then refitted.

I'm afraid the only way is the proper way as anything else will just waste your time and money and potentially make it worse.

There are 8 Screws to be removed inside. Unscrew these.

The 'bottom' half of the skylight will come down - set aside.

Gently push the frame of the top half - if may start to come away easily. If not, up on the roof and prise it away from the body Gently.

Once removed, use a flat blade driver to remove old and gunky sealer, and then clean with white spirit/thinners to remove residue.

Put a bead of non drying bedding sealer around the skylight - you will see a narrow 'track' where it should go.

Pop it back over the apeture, go back inside and reattached the lower half. Put the screws in OPPOSITE and EQUAL so that the skylight comes down LEVEL. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN - 'Pinch' it so that it is held, Remove excess from roof-top, and clean around the edge using white spirit.

Leave overnight for a 'skin' to form, and retighten in the morning so that it is firm, but not torqued up. Check for any more excess that has been squeezed out.

[HI]Done! Repeat every three years[/HI]. Same method applies to side body rails, windows etc.
I was with you all the way but do suggest doing it again in 3 years?:Confused:
 

rainbow chasers

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I was with you all the way but do suggest doing it again in 3 years?:Confused:


I personally do, yes. Not only does the sealer age around 3 years and start to crack and deteriorate, but the bodies flex as you drive and after 3 years of twisting and bending, the sealer starts to anneal, algae develops and so on. The book recommendation is something between 5-10 years, depending on the vehicle, but by ten years the sealer is in pretty bad shape, and many are leaking before they're ten years old, particularly Heki type lights. Skylights are an evil thing when it comes to ingress, as you won't see it until it is either dripping because the roof is so wet, or the corners are stained as it has run inside the roof lining to each corner. By then, the damage is already done.

As a preventative measure, a reseal every three years is a no brainer to me. It cost little but time and mess, and the pay-off is great when you consider to cost of damp repair and loss of value to what is, in essense your invested savings sat on your drive!

Same ethics as doing the waterpump and tensioner when you have your cambelt changed! All my old hire vehicles were resealed every 3 years or under - (complete windows out etc), and not one has had a drop of water ingress. £2 a tube? Just do it!
 
Apr 27, 2008
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I personally do, yes. Not only does the sealer age around 3 years and start to crack and deteriorate, but the bodies flex as you drive and after 3 years of twisting and bending, the sealer starts to anneal, algae develops and so on. The book recommendation is something between 5-10 years, depending on the vehicle, but by ten years the sealer is in pretty bad shape, and many are leaking before they're ten years old, particularly Heki type lights. Skylights are an evil thing when it comes to ingress, as you won't see it until it is either dripping because the roof is so wet, or the corners are stained as it has run inside the roof lining to each corner. By then, the damage is already done.

As a preventative measure, a reseal every three years is a no brainer to me. It cost little but time and mess, and the pay-off is great when you consider to cost of damp repair and loss of value to what is, in essense your invested savings sat on your drive!

Same ethics as doing the waterpump and tensioner when you have your cambelt changed! All my old hire vehicles were resealed every 3 years or under - (complete windows out etc), and not one has had a drop of water ingress. £2 a tube? Just do it!

I must agree with this. My van is only 5 years old but had started to leak around the Heki and also the washroom window if the wind was in that direction. All resealed and fine now.:thumb:

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pegleg

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Aug 31, 2013
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26
cheshire
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12 years
Sealant

Sorry but can you tell me the names sealant you use on the windows etc ,thanks:thumb:
 
Feb 1, 2011
209
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Redcar
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15,161
MH
Hymer C. Class
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26 yrs
Hi,
I have done both my lights this year, try and get a nice dry warm day.
Take your time removing the lights, I found a Snap off blade Stanley knife fully extended, ideal. ( A card of 6 in the £ shop)you can bend the blade keeping it flat to the roof. Work slowly around the light rim, going a little way in each time. Till the light lifts off.
Then clean it and when its clean, clean it again. It needs to be spotless to get the right seal. Use a quality sealant they are about £7-£10 a tube.
Good luck, remember you only get one chance to do it right.
Best Regards Mac
 

TheBig1

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Nov 27, 2011
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many many years! since I was a kid
the flat ribbon type sealant you buy on rolls is the best way to seal roof lights and window frames. its designed to allow for movement when the vehicle flexes. leisure industry standard when they build motorhomes and caravans.

various manufacturers but w4 is the most common found in caravan accessory shops. very simple and clean to use and gives a reliable finish

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froghopper

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Nov 29, 2009
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before they were invented
Sealer

Our renault traffic is 27 yrs old. Had same problem, took vents out. Cleaned all old sealant off and replaced bead, put vent back on screwed them down then put thin bead round outside edge. Have done beading around body, lights windows, no leaks for over 5 yrs, and only ever use b&q own brand, it's clear, flexible but most of all.. It's cheap, :thumb::thumb:
 

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