Sterling Alternator to Battery Charger on a Transit (1 Viewer)

jonandshell

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Hi all,

We have just upgraded to a Sterling 160amp Alternator to Battery Charger on our RWD Chausson/Transit.
Installation is a bit more involved than a Battery to Battery unit, but the results are well worth it!
Measured at the alternator, charging a 50% discharged 345Ah battery bank, I am getting 120 Amps at tickover and 155 Amps at 1200 RPM.:Eeek:
The Transit alternator is specced at 150 Amps.
Obviously, some of this is running the diesel injectors and engine management.

The unit has all the benefits of the Battery to Battery charger in that it charges at a higher voltage and increases the useable capacity of the batteries, plus avoids gradual suphation of the plates by incomplete charging.

If my maths are correct, when skiing it should be possible for the hab batteries to last four days (at a 80% discharge) and be recharged with a 2 1/2 hour run. For those who don't know us, we have a traction battery bank.
Alternatively, a 1 1/2 hour run every 2 days will keep the batteries topped up.

The low running times should avoid bore glazing issues for the infrequent times we will use the van engine as a genny.
Fast charging also uses water, so battery maintenance will be a bit more regular than with our old 50 Amp B2B.:Sad:

The charger was £309 to buy and out-performs a genny in every way!:thumb:

If any Funster needs any tips on fitting one of these, I am willing to share my fitting experience.
 

scotjimland

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I considered one of these units when I had the RV .. but as we did very little off site camping didn't really have a need, but to my way of thinking, if you are a serious 'off grid' camper this unit coupled with a traction battery bank is a far better investment than either a genny or solar ..

Some good info and wiring diagrams here ..

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Jim

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Hi John, thanks for that. What are the advantages over the battery to battery system?

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jonandshell

jonandshell

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We have diesel-only heating too, Jim (Scotjimland).

A genny would only provide battery charging and would have no other use to us than maybe running the fridge!

With this unit, compared with a genny, it is lighter, requires no extra fuel to be carried and releases storage space for beer!:thumb:

Plus nobody can nick it!:thumb:

It's just fingers crossed that Charles Sterling's assurances that this will not affect alternator life are correct!:pray:

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKURbJOoICk[/ame]
 
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jonandshell

jonandshell

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Hi John, thanks for that. What are the advantages over the battery to battery system?

More lovely amps!!!!!!

We have a very large battery bank and the 45 Amp B2B, whilst an excellent bit of kit, hasn't the capacity to keep the engine running times down to sensible levels.

The B2B unit, despite what you see advertised, is only available as a 45 Amp unit.
The 100 Amp version, according to Sterling themselves, isn't available until at least May 2013!:whatthe:

By then, the snow will be gone in Val Thorens!:ROFLMAO:

All the alternator to battery chargers currently advertised are available and come in sizes up to an RV-sized 210 Amp version!:Eeek:
 
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Forestboy

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I was looking at one of these a few months back but when I spoke directly to Sterling they told me it was'nt suitable for my 2002 2.8 JTD as there was a high risk of it damaging the ECU. Can't say I really understood why as he did'nt explain very well but it put me off and I'm still debating over a B2B.

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jonandshell

jonandshell

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The starter battery output on the A-B charger is simply a loop out via a diode from the alternator output.
It provides no more variable a charging voltage than the B2B unit. I have checked our voltages and it is comparable to the B2B unit. There are no problems on the base vehicle.

Sterling's advice to you is a bit puzzling because their advertising literature says the unit IS suitable for ECUs due to the stable output it provides.

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When I spoke to Sterling ref. the Transit, all they did was warn of the voltage drops across the original Transit busbars and fuse blocks.

The only measure required to make the thing work was an ign feed via a diode to the alternator output. This was due to the alternator needing a 12v feed to its output to 'fire up'!
This is covered in the instruction book. I added the diode as a 'belt and braces' measure to prevent any backfeeding into the ECU electrics. Although this isn't deemed necessary by Sterling.

Hope this helps, Rory.:thumb:
 
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Forestboy

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Thanks
Not sure what to do now as it was Charles Sterling I spoke to:Doh:
Off to Spain for 5 weeks on Wednesday but would like to do something before going skiing next year.:thumb:
 
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jonandshell

jonandshell

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I can only think they might be worried about confliction with your existing split charge system.

If you were to leave your original split charge system in it's present form, you could find you are effectively connecting your A2B hab battery output to your starter battery output via the split charge relay. This is the same case with the B2B charger and requires an isolating relay for your Hab batteries to isolate them when your engine is running.

However, Jock and Rita have a Hymer with an Electroblok and theirs appears to not not activate it's internal split charge relay when another charging scource is present, as we discovered at Newark this year. Their Sterling B2B runs just fine with no vehicle mods at all.:thumb:

The B2B is much easier to install and, Sterling advised, you can run 2 in parallel! This will provide double the output to your batteries and from your wallet!:ROFLMAO:

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jonandshell

jonandshell

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Very important.

But most of us have el-cheapo leisure batteries, whether these would take the rapid charging for a long time is the question. Or would we be buying new batteries on a regular basis.

Good point Brain!:thumb:

Quality open lead-acid batteries are a must for these Sterling devices.

There are settings on the units for AGM, gel and sealed lead-acid batteries, but the lower voltages and subsequent extended charging times make the investment in a Sterling system questionable.
 

eddie

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Charles Sterling is the foremost battery and and charging expert. His products which are primarily designed for the marine market,excellent value for money and preform well.

However to claim that your charging the lesiure battery at 155Ah from a 150Ah alternator, whilst simultaneously replenishing the engine batteries ongoing demands of running the engine and associated electrical equipment is impressive bordering on bewildering!

What equipment was used to measure a 155Ah charge rate? most multi meters peak at about 20Ah We at Van Bitz can calibrate and measure up to 500Ah but accurate equipment is very expensive, and not normally in the domain of members of public.

What gauge cable was used to carry the 155Ah and how long was the run? (the distance between the leisure batteries and the alternator) these are all interesting factors that will help people decide which system to choose:Eeek:

Eddie
 

chrisgreen

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Charles Sterling is the foremost battery and and charging expert. His products which are primarily designed for the marine market,excellent value for money and preform well.

However to claim that your charging the lesiure battery at 155Ah from a 150Ah alternator, whilst simultaneously replenishing the engine batteries ongoing demands of running the engine and associated electrical equipment is impressive bordering on bewildering!

What equipment was used to measure a 155Ah charge rate? most multi meters peak at about 20Ah We at Van Bitz can calibrate and measure up to 500Ah but accurate equipment is very expensive, and not normally in the domain of members of public.

What gauge cable was used to carry the 155Ah and how long was the run? (the distance between the leisure batteries and the alternator) these are all interesting factors that will help people decide which system to choose:Eeek:

Eddie
alternators rated at 150 amp will happily push out more than 150 amps,although not good for the alternator as its only rated at 150amps continuios use,as for the multi meter, availible on ebay for as little as £20 rated upto 500 amp dc:thumb:
as for the cable i know the one i built has cable rated at 700 amps,not sure what OP is useing:Smile:
 

aba

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i think the OP works in the fork lift domain so would have the accurate testing equipment.

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eddie

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alternators rated at 150 amp will happily push out more than 150 amps,although not good for the alternator as its only rated at 150amps continuios use,as for the multi meter, availible on ebay for as little as £20 rated upto 500 amp dc

LOL I know. Frankly connect the batteries using 50mm Sq section and a 200Ah rated relay and you'll have all the power you'll need.

Eddie

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jonandshell

jonandshell

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Eddie, just read the bloody post before you pass dispersions on my observations.

The amperage, as stated, was measured at the alternator. This was done with a quality clamp tester.
Go back to what you know, I'll get back to work fitting a new 600 Amp inverter to a VNA. Truck.
 
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jonandshell

jonandshell

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By the way, the heavy cable and big relay solution described will give a high amp charge rate into the battery bank for a short time. When I tested this solution, I saw 90amps into the battery bank.
However, this soon tapers off, whereas the Sterling unit keeps the voltage higher and keeps putting more current for longer.
A standard alternator output will not fully charge a lead acid traction battery. Vehicle alternator outputs are kept lower to prevent gassing of sealed automotive starter batteries.
 

eddie

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By the way, the heavy cable and big relay solution described will give a high amp charge rate into the battery bank for a short time. When I tested this solution, I saw 90amps into the battery bank.
However, this soon tapers off, whereas the Sterling unit keeps the voltage higher and keeps putting more current for longer.
A standard alternator output will not fully charge a lead acid traction battery. Vehicle alternator outputs are kept lower to prevent gassing of sealed automotive starter batteries.

The reason that we prefer the B2B option is that it doesn't affect any warranty. When the alternator charger is fitted many garages throw a wobbly re warranty for any related charging/battery issues.

Lol I apologise if you thought my post disparaging, having re read it I agree, but it wasn't meant to be. Perhaps I'll stop sitting down to read the forums after work when I have a bottle of wine to hand:winky:

Cheers Eddie

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jonandshell

jonandshell

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Cheers Eddie

You make a very good point ref. Vehicle warranty.
I was on my break when I posted my response. LOL we have both learned to consider a post properly before posting!
The A2B unit is working very well at present. We are having a weekend away and are hoping to get the batteries down to 80% discharge with enthusiastic use of the electric kettle (via inverter)!
If sparks are going to fly, it will be on Sunday when we start up again!

Don't worry about cable choice, there is a combination of 25mm to 50mm, depending on length of run and calculated current flow. All cable is in conduit with lugs swaged and soldered.
 
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jonandshell

jonandshell

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Update!

Discharged batteries down to an open circuit voltage of 11.9v (60% discharge), couldn't do any more tea!

That means we used up 345 x 60% which equals 207 Ah.

Started engine, ran at idle for 20 mins, drove home (1 1/4hr), upon arrival at home, charger had finished its bulk charge and was on 'time control' or in other words, just topping off.

From experience, the 'time control' stage lasts for quite a while until 'float' is achieved. The additional capacity put in at this stage is about the last 10%.

So therefore, batteries were 90% replenished in 1hr 35 mins, or 186Ah replaced!:thumb:
That means an average current to the hab batteries of 116A.

I hasten to add that only the engine management was being run, no lights or heater fan was used during the journey. Perhaps someone can tell me how much current a typical diesel engine management system draws?

I am not sure if these figures are 100% correct, but they do point to the A-B system being very effective.:thumb:
I will update this thread after our ski trip, but it appears the charging routine cited on the original post should be effective.

By the way, I left the clamp meter at home! So hence the rather vague assumptions and schoolboy maths!::bigsmile:
 
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jonandshell

jonandshell

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I thought I should update this thread following our skiing trip and the Arctic conditions at the Newark show!::bigsmile:

The charger has been running well, run times to recharge have been cut drasticly in comparison to the old B2B unit. After the Newark show, with batteries down to 11.7 volts, after a 1 3/4 drive home, we were fully recharged. Performance during the skiing trip was fantastic. A 1 1/4 run every other day kept us topped up for most of the stay.

I say 'most of' because 2 of our batteries froze 9 days into our stay! After that it was a half hour run each day to keep the one remaining battery charged!

Either way, if you are brave enough, the Alternator to Battery charger is a fantastic alternative to the B2B unit and effectively makes a generator redundant for battery charging.:thumb:

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