red fail light on truma c6002 blown air poss fix (1 Viewer)

[chrisbooth]

hope this helps someone.my red fail light came on every time i turned on the heating when system was cold and not pluged into the mains 240 volt.if pluged into mains voltage with the boiler set to hot water it worked.the red light comes on when there is a problem with gas supply. i was told it was the pcb board at 300 pounds .i checked the gas lines and found them to contain a lot of oil deposits which i blew out with an air line.this did not fix the problem,so after looking further i found that the solinoid valve was also filled with oil. this is the valve where the gas pipe enters the boiler.with boiler cold try to fire it up if the red light comes on try warming the valve with a hair dryer,this will make the oil with in thiner allowing the solinoids of which there are two one on either side to opperate properly.when cold the oil is to thick to allow opperation.if this works then the solinoid valve needs to be replaced with a new one at a cost of 68 pounds which is a lot cheeper than a 300 pound pcb board. to help prevent this from happening again it is a good idear to replace the rubber hoses from the gas bottles for stainles steel ones as the rubber hoses can leach oil into the system.you could also fit an oil trap which would help. hope this helps someone

 

[TheBig1]

or wash out the oily deposits with petrol and touroughly dry before reassembling and testing.

another point is that the flame failure solenoid is operated using a thermocouple, so using a hairdryer will also heat this up making the valve open. try to ensure the thermocouple is correctly positioned and clean. Not saying that i dont agree that the oily deposits will have a similar effect, but a faulty thermocouple does the same

 

[chrisbooth]

or wash out the oily deposits with petrol and touroughly dry before reassembling and testing.

another point is that the flame failure solenoid is operated using a thermocouple, so using a hairdryer will also heat this up making the valve open. try to ensure the thermocouple is correctly positioned and clean. Not saying that i dont agree that the oily deposits will have a similar effect, but a faulty thermocouple does the same

if the solinoid is not working properly you can hear its at fault. this is what i found and on replacement of the solinoid valve it has worked perfectly every time

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[dave newell]

or wash out the oily deposits with petrol and touroughly dry before reassembling and testing.

another point is that the flame failure solenoid is operated using a thermocouple, so using a hairdryer will also heat this up making the valve open. try to ensure the thermocouple is correctly positioned and clean. Not saying that i dont agree that the oily deposits will have a similar effect, but a faulty thermocouple does the same

Sorry Big1 but you are wrong here, the Truma c6002 does not use a thermocouple to keep the valve open it is a double solenoid valve controlled from the PCB. Flame detection is done through the igniter system, basically once the flame is present the ions in the flame conduct electrickery from the spark electrode effectively lowering the resistance, the PCB identifies this and shuts off the spark generator. If the flame goes out for any reason the resistance will rise immediately and the pcb will recognise this and try to relight.

D.

 

[dave newell]

The issue uotlined in the OP is one reason I would stick with a Truma/Gok regulator, yes it may clog up and fail but at least it won't be passing oil into the van's gas system where it can cause other problems one of which (if it gets as far as the burners) can be a dramatic rise in CO production. While alternative regulators may not fail due to oily deposits they will allow them to pass into the rest of the system. Stick with Truma/Gok and fit the new Truma gas system filter would be my recommendation.

D.

 

[Terry]

Hi Chris, give truma a ring there very helpful and will have come across the problem before If all else fails you can book into there workshops that charge only £35 plus vat per hour where they will check the PCB and do a exchange etc a lot cheaper than £330-
terry
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[haganap]

Like Dave says, I have truma regulator but because they are always prone to fail. I carry a spare. :thumb:

10 min job to change should it go wrong.

 

[chrisbooth]

Hi Chris, give truma a ring there very helpful and will have come across the problem before If all else fails you can book into there workshops that charge only £35 plus vat per hour where they will check the PCB and do a exchange etc a lot cheaper than £330-
terry
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you miss under stand me terry, this is how i fixed my problem ,it is working fine. i posted my thread to help any one with a similar problem thanks any way regards chris

 

[Terry]

you miss under stand me terry, this is how i fixed my problem ,it is working fine. i posted my thread to help any one with a similar problem thanks any way regards chris

ahhhhh no probs Chris I did think you were having probs :thumb: but as you say it may well help others.When I had a problem with the PCB on my heater my mate warmed it up with a hot air gun got it working,then took it out and replaced about five or six capacitors which he had (repairs tvs computers etc)no idea which was faulty but like he said it works :thumb:
terry

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