Where is the control panel powered from? (1 Viewer)

Jul 2, 2011
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Engine battery flat after just 5 days. Nothing left on except `maybe` habitation control panel which I assumed was powered from the leisure batteries.

Thanks

Steve
 

alfandM

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Engine battery flat after just 5 days. Nothing left on except `maybe` habitation control panel which I assumed was powered from the leisure batteries.

Thanks

Steve
it sounds you got a duff battery, get it checked out, :thumb:
 
OP
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Have done today, it`s fine.

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slobadoberbob

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It is possible that you have a drain on the battery

It is possible that there is a drain on the engine battery. Each vehicle has it's own set up. I do not know your vehicle but you need to follow certain steps.

Q does the engine battery draw power the habitation battery or v v (is there a split charger on the engine battery or some sort of battery master on the habitation battery .. i.e charges the engine battery when on electric hook up?

Q is there a drain on the engine battery using a radio? these draw power even when the engine is off... same with an alarm?

Q can you switch between the engine / habitation battery or batteries? will this allow domestic items to take power out of the engine battery?

Q - silly question I know, is there an internal light that stays on?

Q is the habitation / domestic battery hold a charge ?

Try thinking about what can draw down the engine power... when it is connected to the vehicle have you used a meter to see if there is a battery draw when the ignition is off? then check it with the ignition is on, and then with the engine running.

Hope it exercises the mind to allow you to start to track down where the drain is.


Bob
 

Heyupluv

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Engine battery flat after just 5 days. Nothing left on except `maybe` habitation control panel which I assumed was powered from the leisure batteries.

Thanks

Steve

Steve.... try one of these fuse connection type digital testers to find where the drain of power is:Doh:

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Hollyberry

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Just an idea--check you don't have any obscure lights that can be left on. For example, I have a light inside the range of lockers above the cab, with a switch on a wall nearby. It'd be very easy to leave the light on and not know ( as I realised when 3 yr old grandson tried EVERY switch he could reach!)
 
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Jul 2, 2011
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Thanks for the replies.

The cab radio is a CD/DVD player, plays DVD`s but not for some reason CD`s. Says `Loading` then `Bad data`. It is wired to be on when ignition off but wasn`t left on.

Managed 4 days at Chester without a problem. Parked it on Sunday everything off except maybe control panel and alarm, flat by Friday. Had charging and battery checked today, everythink working as it should.

On EHU all the time at home so don`t think there can be any power going to engine battery. Might need to get something to do that.

There is a diagram of a cab on the control panel with a lightning bolt pointing at it, when pressed a red light illuminates next to it. I think this is to send power from the engine battery to habitation batteries though, not the other way round. may be wrong.

Will go through Bob`s list tomorrow.

Thanks

Steve
 
OP
OP
Encantador
Jul 2, 2011
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Just an idea--check you don't have any obscure lights that can be left on. For example, I have a light inside the range of lockers above the cab, with a switch on a wall nearby. It'd be very easy to leave the light on and not know ( as I realised when 3 yr old grandson tried EVERY switch he could reach!)

Thanks, don`t think so but worth a look.

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slobadoberbob

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add to my list

Thanks for the replies.

The cab radio is a CD/DVD player, plays DVD`s but not for some reason CD`s. Says `Loading` then `Bad data`. It is wired to be on when ignition off but wasn`t left on.

Managed 4 days at Chester without a problem. Parked it on Sunday everything off except maybe control panel and alarm, flat by Friday. Had charging and battery checked today, everythink working as it should.

On EHU all the time at home so don`t think there can be any power going to engine battery. Might need to get something to do that.

There is a diagram of a cab on the control panel with a lightning bolt pointing at it, when pressed a red light illuminates next to it. I think this is to send power from the engine battery to habitation batteries though, not the other way round. may be wrong.

Will go through Bob`s list tomorrow.

Thanks

Steve

Steve add to the list...

seems that there is no charge to the engine battery when on EHU (Electric Hook Up).. this is not uncommon.. hence I mentioned battery master.. that unit allows excess charge to be moved from the domestic habitation battery to the engine. So it does not go flat.

Most charge systems do not let you drain your engine battery when you use the domestic habitation battery.

You need to really get a test meter and check the drains..

My RV, and I say RV had a similar issue that the engine battery would go flat after a week of so.. despite the battery being new. It stopped when I had a battery master fitted.

My alarm system, my radio all have a drain on the battery.. just I needed more input against what was going out.

if you get stuck.. p.m. and I will give you my phone number.. often to just talk through issues helps... another persons thoughts can get you going int he right direction .. often having to think out side the box.


Bob
 
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Jul 2, 2011
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Thanks for the offer Bob.

Well that was interesting.....

Just been out to check for lights on etc, none.

Checked battery on control panel 12.7V. pressed the button mentioned earlier and it went up to 13.1V. Flicking through the display looks like when on it is sending 6.00A TO the engine battery from EHU.

So that might be useful to charge it should it go down again.

If I keep an eye on it over the next few days, what sort of level can it go down to but still start the engine (approx).

thanks

Steve
 

aba

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Oct 27, 2009
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it should start the engine at 12.2 - 12.3 but its nearly flat by that point as a reading of 12 volt means its flat ideally it wants to be no less than 12.5 volt as the load from the starter could kill it if much below.

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haganap

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Hi Steve.
There is a facility to send power between batteries. However the sending of power from cab to hab will not prevent the degeneration of engine battery by not allowing to much to be taken out.
When on hook up, your van would/should charge the engine battery if you have this facility you mention on your control panel, they are linked. The bit you refer to is in times of need when you can send power to the engine battery from the hab batteries in desperation of needing to give your engine battery a boost.

Have you got a booklet? in the instruction manual it will tell you this aspect of the control panel, although on mine you need a degree to understand it.

How have you checked your battery?

For a battery to be flat in 5 days means one of two things, either, your leaving something on that's drawing more power than can be put in, or your battery is knacked. You have assured us all that you have not left anything on if you are confident that's the case then i would go for a knacked battery.
Your van is 6 years old, average span of MOST batteries? 5 years,
 

pappajohn

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Thanks for the offer Bob.

Well that was interesting.....

Just been out to check for lights on etc, none.

Checked battery on control panel 12.7V. pressed the button mentioned earlier and it went up to 13.1V. Flicking through the display looks like when on it is sending 6.00A TO the engine battery from EHU.

So that might be useful to charge it should it go down again.

If I keep an eye on it over the next few days, what sort of level can it go down to but still start the engine (approx).

thanks

Steve
that looks like a modern version of the old Swift panels.

a simple rocker switch from hab to cab, with off in the middle.

set the switch to cab and the onboard charger would charge the engine battery.
switch to hab and the hab battery received the charge.
turn to off and neither got a charge but charger power was sent to the 12v hab electrics instead of the batteries.

put the switch in the relevant position, off hookup, and you can use either battery to power the hab 12v, as well as charge either on hookup.

good for emergencies but not a good idea to use it otherwise, as the engine battery will flatten.

as for how low to start....i wouldnt let it go below 12.4v (80% charged) and only then if its a first crank starter
 
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You have assured us all that you have not left anything on if you are confident that's the case then i would go for a knacked battery.
Your van is 6 years old, average span of MOST batteries? 5 years,

The only thing `On` was the alarm and possibly the control panel, not sure where that draws power from though.

battery has been checked today by auto electrician and is fine as is alternator.

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Jan 19, 2010
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Our experience was our hab battery was going flat as a you know what after 3 or 4 days of being parked up in the yard. It would charge up fine and hold the charge ok. Last time we parked it up we turned off the control panel and it's sill showing 12.5v after 3 weeks.
 
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Jul 2, 2011
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that looks like a modern version of the old Swift panels.

a simple rocker switch from hab to cab, with off in the middle.

set the switch to cab and the onboard charger would charge the engine battery.
switch to hab and the hab battery received the charge.
turn to off and neither got a charge but charger power was sent to the 12v hab electrics instead of the batteries.

put the switch in the relevant position, off hookup, and you can use either battery to power the hab 12v, as well as charge either on hookup.

good for emergencies but not a good idea to use it otherwise, as the engine battery will flatten.

as for how low to start....i wouldnt let it go below 12.4v (80% charged) and only then if its a first crank starter

It`s not a rocker, just a flat button you press and a red light comes on,doesn`t stay on though, red light goes out after a short while.
 

haganap

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It`s not a rocker, just a flat button you press and a red light comes on,doesn`t stay on though, red light goes out after a short while.

It;s the same as mine. The light goes out to prevent leaving the other without charge.

My van is on hook up,
My van is alarmed
i never turn control panel off
My battery remains charged

even when I practically live in it with the engine switched on and the radio on whilst admiring it. Ive even left the radio on overnight several times whilst hooked up, still no problem. As said, the power swop is for emergency situations.

If you have not left anything on, and your battery is charging, but going flat

Have you thought about changing your auto technician? :winky:

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pappajohn

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It`s not a rocker, just a flat button you press and a red light comes on,doesn`t stay on though, red light goes out after a short while.
yes, i realised it wasnt a rocker, just pointing out how the old swift system worked.

may be worth checking the engine battery voltage after pressing the button (on hookup) to see if it is charging, even if the light has gone out.

nothing to lose !
 

Jaws

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A wee while ago I was dismayed to find my van battery was as flat as a flounder
I posted up on here that it had died a death at the time............ It turned on as normal yet the moment I tried the starter it just went stone dead

I stuck my big battery booster on it ( charges at 50 amps if need be ) and after 10 minutes she fired up

Was away that weekend and the bugger went dead again on site

Had a fiddle about and Lo!
The battery connector looked in perfect condition and was tight.. I released the clamp, cleaned up ( what looked like a prefectly clean battery post ) and refitted the terminal

All has been fine ever since

I am a spanner chucker and for my sins in a previous life an electronics engineer.. I mention this as a by the by just to show anyone can make an oops !
 
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Sorry to have to resurrect this guys but battery flat again yesterday, having said that it hadn`t been far (about 5 miles) since last time so I assume would not have been fully charged.

Control panel said 11.7v, pressed switch mentioned earlier in this thread and within a couple of minutes it was saying 12.9. Obviously not charged that quickly.

red light on switch goes off after a minute or two so no idea whether it carries on charging or not. ran the engine and eventually battery using multi meter said 12.68 3 hours later 12.3 and 18 hours later 12.1.

Didn`t put alarm on just locked doors manually, having said that, red light on dash was still flashing, not quite sure what that means, opened garage door which would normally set alarm off and nothing, so alarm definitely off.

Auto electrician said battery and charging were OK the other day, checked charging with meter and get 14.3V which I think is about right.

Apart from getting battery checked again on Monday, is there anything else I can check?

Also, what sort of gizmos can I get (or have fitted) that will charge engine battery from solar panel?

Thanks

Steve

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jubilado

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Not really an expert on electrickery (white man's magic). If your radio has a removable front suggest you take it out. I get the feeling even though switched off the radio can still consume power.

Ken
 

slobadoberbob

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why not use a battery master

Sorry to have to resurrect this guys but battery flat again yesterday, having said that it hadn`t been far (about 5 miles) since last time so I assume would not have been fully charged.

Control panel said 11.7v, pressed switch mentioned earlier in this thread and within a couple of minutes it was saying 12.9. Obviously not charged that quickly.

red light on switch goes off after a minute or two so no idea whether it carries on charging or not. ran the engine and eventually battery using multi meter said 12.68 3 hours later 12.3 and 18 hours later 12.1.

Didn`t put alarm on just locked doors manually, having said that, red light on dash was still flashing, not quite sure what that means, opened garage door which would normally set alarm off and nothing, so alarm definitely off.

Auto electrician said battery and charging were OK the other day, checked charging with meter and get 14.3V which I think is about right.

Apart from getting battery checked again on Monday, is there anything else I can check?

Also, what sort of gizmos can I get (or have fitted) that will charge engine battery from solar panel?

Thanks

Steve

Steve, if you have EHU / even solar .. why not get a battery master fitted - not very expensive around £60 or less.. it diverts excess charge from the domestic battery/ or batteries to the starting battery.. it keeps it topped up all the time. I had the same issues on my RV, but these days never happens with the battery master fitted.

I know VanBitz sells them, as they fitted mine, but from other post it is not a hard job to do. Others will recommend i am sure other similar products you can get on ebay.

Regards

Bob

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