Wardrobe Door Fallen Off! (1 Viewer)

DUKEMAN358

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The door on our wardrobe keeps opening when we set off! I noticed the locking mechanism seems not to work properly so adjusted the little posts allowing the hooks to grip a bit better and it seemed to work for the top hook but not the bottom. It looks like the mechanism in the centre handle device does not catch. I noticed the screws on the hinges started to come lose as the door flies open and now it has come off! Anyone had a similar experience? Advice? I'm no carpenter but the screw holes appear too worn now.Nits a swift 580 pr MH.
 
Feb 27, 2011
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It depends on what type of wood it is. I had a similar problem with an MDF panel/door.

I filled the hole using match sticks and araldite. I put a clamp across it to stop it expanding. Once dried I drill a 2mm pilot hole. It has held up fine to this day..

If it is ply wood this may not work so well and you may need to use a thinner glue that will soak into the wood and along the grain.

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It depends on what type of wood it is. I had a similar problem with an MDF panel/door.

I filled the hole using match sticks and araldite. I put a clamp across it to stop it expanding. Once dried I drill a 2mm pilot hole. It has held up fine to this day..

If it is ply wood this may not work so well and you may need to use a thinner glue that will soak into the wood and along the grain.

Yes grommet I,ve used this method with success and would have recommended it before you did but i wasn't,t up at 04:46
 

spannermanwigan

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Drill out screw holes with a drill that makes a hole into which you can tightly insert a plastic
wall plug as above, fill the hole with wood glue and tap the plug in.
You will then have the perfect hole into which you can re-insert your original screws, you can shorten the plastic plugs to suit the depth of screw hole,be careful not to drill or screw right through your panel. done carefully makes a good permanent repair.

Regards
Steve:thumb:
 
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Just my personal opion but I would advise against the raw plug method with both MDF and plywood. A hole big enough to fit a raw plug in would seriously compromise the structure of the wood :cry:

Raw plugs are great for when you are screwing into something that doesn't have any give in it such as masonry but not so good for stuff that flexes or has give in it...

Just my opinion so feel free to ignore me...

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aba

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you could always go the tried and tested method of nut and coach bolt but it may not look as good but will certainly last
 

spannermanwigan

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Just my personal opion but I would advise against the raw plug method with both MDF and plywood. A hole big enough to fit a raw plug in would seriously compromise the structure of the wood :cry:

Raw plugs are great for when you are screwing into something that doesn't have any give in it such as masonry but not so good for stuff that flexes or has give in it...

Just my opinion so feel free to ignore me...

How big are your Raw Plugs Gromett - (I use the smallest normally red or yellow) Try it you may be pleasantly surprised,when they are tapped into a tight fitting hole and glued in place they work very well indeed:thumb:

Did all round the Bed slat supports in my van, which Autotrail had Glued and poorly screwed into place, and were for ever coming loose once repaired in this way they have never moved again.(Im 105 kg, wifes 55kg ) Also done our wardrobe doors, and some Hardwood heavy internal house doors using same method.

regards
Steve
 

TheBig1

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a far less unsightly method would be to clean up the holes and fill with plastic wood filler in a similar colour, leaving a good solid surface to refit the hinges and catches. Just wait for the filler to set hard and use a small pilot drill bit to create new smaller holes. This would leave it looking as it would have when leaving the factory, but much stronger as the plastic wood filler does not fray or splinter

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Terry

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It depends on what type of wood it is. I had a similar problem with an MDF panel/door.

I filled the hole using match sticks and araldite. I put a clamp across it to stop it expanding. Once dried I drill a 2mm pilot hole. It has held up fine to this day..

If it is ply wood this may not work so well and you may need to use a thinner glue that will soak into the wood and along the grain.

I was going to stay out of this one, seeing how Gromett gave my answer, but upon reading more replies thought I would echo the above all be it with PVA wood glue which although not named is thinner than the araldite either one is good but araldite does not give / is hard so I tend to screw the screw almost home let it set then remove and re-fix :thumb:
terry
 
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I would use PVA on ply wood as it tends to seep along between the sheets of veneer. I use araldite on MDF because that is what a friend of mine who owns a joinery factory recommended and it worked a treat....
 
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DUKEMAN358

DUKEMAN358

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Thanks for all the comments, just need to get to and sort it using a combination of the methods. Cheers

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Heyupluv

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It depends on what type of wood it is. I had a similar problem with an MDF panel/door.

I filled the hole using match sticks and araldite. I put a clamp across it to stop it expanding. Once dried I drill a 2mm pilot hole. It has held up fine to this day..

If it is ply wood this may not work so well and you may need to use a thinner glue that will soak into the wood and along the grain.


I also agree with Gromett & Terry.... being a retired joiner....they are the items I would first use to do a simple repair, do not fill the hole with araldite just a thin coating on the piece of wood you insert...for the same reason as Terry as put it is a solid hard resin glue ...all you are using the araldite glue for is to hold the inserted wood you screw into:thumb:

Mel:thumb:
 

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