Transponder bypass (1 Viewer)

haganap

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What a shockingly bad day :Sad:

Went out to the van to continue to pack it for skiing when the immobiliser light would not go out. This has happened 3 times in 3 years. However, on the previous occasions, it managed to rectify it self but on this occasion I actually had to call the AA. He came out tried this and that to no avail. Finally he unplugged it from the transponder box and plugged it back in and away it went. Fine, great , right smashing. Drove off to get gas, stopped on garage forecourt and it done exactly the same again, different AA man this time, and I unplugged it my self from the transponder box to no avail. However, when he went to make a phone call, I again unplugged and plugged back in and bingo, right as rain. it now continues in much the same fashion, working fine. However I just know it wont last.

DOes anyone know if this can be bypassed? if so is it a simple job, and yes I know about the insurance issue but to be honest, no point having a van that you cant use.
 

SandJ

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What a shockingly bad day :Sad:

Went out to the van to continue to pack it for skiing when the immobiliser light would not go out. This has happened 3 times in 3 years. However, on the previous occasions, it managed to rectify it self but on this occasion I actually had to call the AA. He came out tried this and that to no avail. Finally he unplugged it from the transponder box and plugged it back in and away it went. Fine, great , right smashing. Drove off to get gas, stopped on garage forecourt and it done exactly the same again, different AA man this time, and I unplugged it my self from the transponder box to no avail. However, when he went to make a phone call, I again unplugged and plugged back in and bingo, right as rain. it now continues in much the same fashion, working fine. However I just know it wont last.

DOes anyone know if this can be bypassed? if so is it a simple job, and yes I know about the insurance issue but to be honest, no point having a van that you cant use.

Paul

Try a Pm to Geo, he should know

Steve
 

pappajohn

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the immobiliser is part of the ECU Paul.

i beleive it can be bypassed but needs to be connected to a diagnostic computer to rewrite the software.

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haganap

haganap

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so what do you think is the best option John?

Key assist say they can come and re programme the transponder and keys for £230 +vat? I don't really see how this would resolve the issue? surely it wil give it the same problem in the future
 

pappajohn

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dont know/heard of anyone with this problem so i really cant advise you Paul.

£230 sounds a lot for a few minutes work with a computer module though !

i assume you tried with all keys/fobs ?
 
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haganap

haganap

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dont know/heard of anyone with this problem so i really cant advise you Paul.

£230 sounds a lot for a few minutes work with a computer module though !

i assume you tried with all keys/fobs ?

yeah, exactly what I thought really.

Tried all keys, now just been out for a while must of started and stopped 30 times with out an issue, just a blip or a major problem who knows, think Im going ot run with it.

However possibly of no relevance or not who knows?
The diagnostic for this fault is described as static in the key & or/transponder. I kissed Nikki went to kiss me earlier and we nearly knocked each other out with static ? weird co-incidence or not?:whatthe:

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Heyupluv

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What a shockingly bad day :Sad:

Went out to the van to continue to pack it for skiing when the immobiliser light would not go out. This has happened 3 times in 3 years. However, on the previous occasions, it managed to rectify it self but on this occasion I actually had to call the AA. He came out tried this and that to no avail. Finally he unplugged it from the transponder box and plugged it back in and away it went. Fine, great , right smashing. Drove off to get gas, stopped on garage forecourt and it done exactly the same again, different AA man this time, and I unplugged it my self from the transponder box to no avail. However, when he went to make a phone call, I again unplugged and plugged back in and bingo, right as rain. it now continues in much the same fashion, working fine. However I just know it wont last.

DOes anyone know if this can be bypassed? if so is it a simple job, and yes I know about the insurance issue but to be honest, no point having a van that you cant use.


haganap
If its the new Fiat multi jet 130 like mine....This has happened to me twice this year, both times it has been when the battery has gone flat with it being stood for a long-ish period and not been used, and I have had to open the cab door with the key to get in, so maybe there is not enough power to disable the immobiliser.. because the battery has been so flat.......what I have found after been on a long run of about 40 miles and put some charge back into the battery.....or charged the battery up again then locked and unlocked using the key fob again all is back to normal...I hope that is the same as yours and is of some help.......:thumb:

Mel:winky:
 
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haganap

haganap

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haganap
If its the new Fiat multi jet 130 like mine....This has happened to me twice this year, both times it has been when the battery has gone flat with it being stood for a long-ish period and not been used, and I have had to open the cab door with the key to get in, so maybe there is not enough power to disable the immobiliser.. because the battery has been so flat.......what I have found after been on a long run of about 40 miles and put some charge back into the battery.....or charged the battery up again then locked and unlocked using the key fob again all is back to normal...I hope that is the same as yours and is of some help.......:thumb:

Mel:winky:

Thank's for that Mel.
Its the 2006 last of the 2.8s although it is said that what you are saying could cause the problem. However mine has been on hook up on my drive and I moved it 3 times in the last couple of weeks without an issue. There just seems no rhyme or reason for it :Sad: if there was I could narrow it down. And frominternet searches, it appears that its not an uncommon problem. Also when people have paid ridiculous ammounts to main dealers to have it rectified it has come back again. Which seems that they are not really being fixed. I mean mine has done this 4 times in the 3 years Ive owned it.

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haganap

haganap

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Paul you have pm

Thanks for the pm John (jhors) I have actually seen that thread earlier in the day. Again it just seems that no one actually knows when you read the forums. One of those things that like in my case, it goes a year or 6 months before it happens again and people give up bothering to fix it. :Smile:
 

jhorsf

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Paul I have read that Eddie at vanbitz has a lot of experience with this problem of immobilisers on Fiats may be worth an email or bell?I have always found this company very helpful
 
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haganap

haganap

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Paul I have read that Eddie at vanbitz has a lot of experience with this problem of immobilisers on Fiats may be worth an email or bell?I have always found this company very helpful

saw that thread as well John ::bigsmile: advice seems to be do nothing...:Smile: so fingers appear crossed.:Mellow:

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the immobiliser is part of the ECU Paul.

i beleive it can be bypassed but needs to be connected to a diagnostic computer to rewrite the software.

Given that the immobiliser is part of the ECU it might be worth having your vehicle hooked up to the Diagnostic computer for an historic check. I was having an annoying warning lamp coming up on the dash that according to the manual was listed as 'other faults', I took it in and within minutes it traced the fault to a damaged oil pressure switch connector. My point is you could have spent weeks probing around in the dark for an intermittent fault but it's just possible the diagnostics may pick it up immediately.
 
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haganap

haganap

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Given that the immobiliser is part of the ECU it might be worth having your vehicle hooked up to the Diagnostic computer for an historic check. I was having an annoying warning lamp coming up on the dash that according to the manual was listed as 'other faults', I took it in and within minutes it traced the fault to a damaged oil pressure switch connector. My point is you could have spent weeks probing around in the dark for an intermittent fault but it's just possible the diagnostics may pick it up immediately.

It was plugged in and came back without a fault sadly. In a way I wish it said there was one so I would know what to get fixed. something about, the transponder is saying to the key "what's your number" the key saying "my number is this" the transponder then saying, "nope your a liar" as if someone was putting a different set of Ducato keys in, and therefore it would not show up as a fault, because in fact, it is doing exactly what it should do by refusing access :Sad: can you see the predicament?
 

dazzer

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We had a similar fault with our Iveco van a few years ago. Our garage told us to get a spare key made (just the key bit without the transponder bit attached) and tape the original key to the black transponder reciever at the back of the ignition barrel.

Did it and never had a problem again :thumb:

Also gives you a spare hidden key if you ever need one but does do away with the security side of the system :winky:
 
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haganap

haganap

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We had a similar fault with our Iveco van a few years ago. Our garage told us to get a spare key made (just the key bit without the transponder bit attached) and tape the original key to the black transponder reciever at the back of the ignition barrel.

Did it and never had a problem again :thumb:

Also gives you a spare hidden key if you ever need one but does do away with the security side of the system :winky:

thats an interesting solution Dazzer. So, you had a spare key made without the transponder, and taped the original to the box? did you have to take off the bit that is connected to the ignition barrel? the little loop thing? the job of that is to send the message to the box to give the box the keys number.
What you are saying actually makes a little bit of sense, but im not sure how it could work.

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dazzer

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thats an interesting solution Dazzer. So, you had a spare key made without the transponder, and taped the original to the box? did you have to take off the bit that is connected to the ignition barrel? the little loop thing? the job of that is to send the message to the box to give the box the keys number.
What you are saying actually makes a little bit of sense, but im not sure how it could work.

Hi.
All we did was tape the whole key to the box at the back of the ignition switch. The new key we had cut is just a plain steel key with no transponder in it.

The garage told us that if the battery is a bit low or the weather is cold the sensors loose efficiency and sometimes have trouble reading the signal. Moving the transponder next to the receiver eliminates the problem of distance from the ignition switch to the sensor.

Not sure if its right or not but we have never had a problem since and the spare hidden key has been a godsend on more than one occasion!!! :winky:
 
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haganap

haganap

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Hi.
All we did was tape the whole key to the box at the back of the ignition switch. The new key we had cut is just a plain steel key with no transponder in it.

The garage told us that if the battery is a bit low or the weather is cold the sensors loose efficiency and sometimes have trouble reading the signal. Moving the transponder next to the receiver eliminates the problem of distance from the ignition switch to the sensor.

Not sure if its right or not but we have never had a problem since and the spare hidden key has been a godsend on more than one occasion!!! :winky:

Thanks Dazzer, that makes a lot of sense actually. The only thing is that I have two keys. I was wondering if I could use one to tape as you say and carry on using the other.

Spoke to someone else today who suggested this fix to. :thumb:
seems ok again at the moment and as said that is the worry as you never know if or when its going to happen again :Angry:
 

wivvy's dad

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The diagnostic for this fault is described as static in the key & or/transponder. I kissed Nikki went to kiss me earlier and we nearly knocked each other out with static ? weird co-incidence or not?:whatthe:

Take the nylon knickers back to Poundland




:ROFLMAO:
 

hilldweller

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Thanks Dazzer, that makes a lot of sense actually. The only thing is that I have two keys. I was wondering if I could use one to tape as you say and carry on using the other.

Don't even think about claiming for theft if you do that and knock out the immobiliser as well as proving a key for the tea-leaves.

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haganap

haganap

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Don't even think about claiming for theft if you do that and knock out the immobiliser as well as proving a key for the tea-leaves.

Brian, you worry too much.

1st, we are assuming someone comes armed with a key to fit, uses it on the hope that someone may of left a key attached to the immobiliser.

2nd, they took a guess and a screw driver that someone would leave attached a key to the immobiliser in the most awkward position and taped for access for said thief. If they guess that and steal it, I will also offer them a free night with my wife. for brainiest thief of the year award. :thumb:

lastly though, what is the point of a van that you can't use? might as well be stolen if it don't work. I have seen a ruling somewhere for sure when someone had there car stolen with keys left in it at a filling station. Result was the insurance company HAD to pay out regardless of the taking due care policy that some insurance companies think they can get away with. And lastly lastly, the insurers have never asked me If my van is fitted with an immobiliser.:RollEyes:
 

jhorsf

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I am packing up my screwdriver now Paul please tell Nicki not to wear the teddybear suit:ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

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rainbow chasers

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Now, if my memory serves, it is usually down to a dodgy connection on the diesel pump. All fiat immobilisers work from the pump, and they all suffer with a dirty connection problem. Usually solved with a new connector.

The keycode system can be bypassed - auto electricians will fit a kit for between £40-60. This will place a new 'box' under you dash, and you will have one of those little sticks on your keyring.

Advantage of these are - should you ever need a new key, you don't need a chipped one! That will save the fitting cost on every key!

Do clean and check the pump connectors first!:thumb:
 
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haganap

haganap

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Now, if my memory serves, it is usually down to a dodgy connection on the diesel pump. All fiat immobilisers work from the pump, and they all suffer with a dirty connection problem. Usually solved with a new connector.

The keycode system can be bypassed - auto electricians will fit a kit for between £40-60. This will place a new 'box' under you dash, and you will have one of those little sticks on your keyring.

Advantage of these are - should you ever need a new key, you don't need a chipped one! That will save the fitting cost on every key!

Do clean and check the pump connectors first!:thumb:

If only it were that simple Tony ..sadly you refer to the one before mine that has the red or blue master key as well. My 2006 model on the last of the previous chasis uses a completely different system to the one you mention. However very useful info for those with the pre2003 chasis
 

rainbow chasers

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If only it were that simple Tony ..sadly you refer to the one before mine that has the red or blue master key as well. My 2006 model on the last of the previous chasis uses a completely different system to the one you mention. However very useful info for those with the pre2003 chasis


Wasn't Tony - was me...with the 'S' lol! (you're not the first!)

Done some digging, and it appears that you have a couple of options - none of them particularly good.

Firstly, check the ignition ring - giving it a wiggle as you turn the key could find a break. Not sure if that part is available alone, but should be.

Second is dashboard (speedo head) check for loose connections etc. Quite common apparently. There are block connections on the back, these usually have a cover which slides off to reveal the blocks, rather than a bunch of wires going 'somehwere' wiggle and test with meter.
Also ceck for dry solder joints.

Finally, if all else fails - the chip can have a program fault either caused within it, or the ECU. Noting that scanning has not pulled any ECU codes - It could possibly be the chip. This will mean buying a repair program and probably lead to download to program on the chip and repair it - not sure now much that would cost!

May pay to have a word with dave newell, or eddie vanbitz and see what they say/ They may have the softeware to deal with it.

Good luck!

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