Electric roller blind motor (1 Viewer)

Patrick

Free Member
Nov 18, 2007
366
11
Liverpool
Funster No
862
MH
A Class
Exp
2 year....Love it!
Right all you engineers out there,

I have fitted a 12v dc motor to my front thermal roller blind. It goes down fine but it struggles with the weight when trying to lift the blind back up. ( it will only come up if I lift the weight of the blind as its winding.

it used to have an elbowed winging handle like the one for an awning.

Does anyone have an electric roller blind on there van, if so what is the size and make of the motor it uses

What would you suggest?:Sad:

Thank,s
 

bobandjanie

LIFE MEMBER
Apr 28, 2008
8,144
15,700
Javea, Spain
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2,360
MH
Pilote V600g
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2007
Hi Patrick, our Euramobil has a electric roller shutter made of aluminium but sorry cant tell you what motor it has as you cant see it.:Smile: Bob.
 

ehuplad

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Feb 9, 2009
504
93
North Yorkshire
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MH
Hobby 600
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6
Right all you engineers out there,

I have fitted a 12v dc motor to my front thermal roller blind. It goes down fine but it struggles with the weight when trying to lift the blind back up. ( it will only come up if I lift the weight of the blind as its winding.

it used to have an elbowed winging handle like the one for an awning.

Does anyone have an electric roller blind on there van, if so what is the size and make of the motor it uses

What would you suggest?:Sad:

Thank,s


Hello patrick,

Contact a blind manufacture local to you they will sell motors for roller blinds and could advise on what is the correct spec.

They may not be happy to just sell you a motor but use your charm.

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Patrick

Patrick

Free Member
Nov 18, 2007
366
11
Liverpool
Funster No
862
MH
A Class
Exp
2 year....Love it!
Would the motor stand gearing or would it be too slow ?

Hi Brian,

The motor i have fitted to the blind is geared it is a PittmanExpress GM9413-3 it just doesn’t seem to have the power to lift the roller blind. I think i need one with more torque. The gearing is 6.1 and has a nice speed for opening and closing but just won't lift on its own.:thumb:
 

dazzer

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Jul 30, 2007
1,620
102
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Hi. You will be looking for a 12 volt tubular motor ( a rare and expensive beast indeed!!!).

If I were you id have a look at the blind roller and see if its the same size as a normal sprung loaded roller blind, if it is buy a cheapo blind and transplant the spring mechanism into the other end of the tube opposite the motor, tension the spring a couple of turns before you attach the blind into position. This will do a lot of the work the motor is struggling with. You might also want to consider removing the heavy weight bar in the bottom of the blind and changing it for a piece of wood.

If you get really stuck pm me with details of the motor (manufacturer and model number) and I may be able to help aquire you a new one. We deal with most of the mainstream tubular motor manfacturers (somfy, garog, link etc etc) but they will only deal with the trade so you cannot go to then directly.

You might want to consider dropping the 12volt system and running a standard 240 volt motor through an invertor they are much much cheaper than the 12 volt jobbies!!
 

hilldweller

LIFE MEMBER
Dec 5, 2008
605
36,108
Macclesfield
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Zilch Mk1
Exp
From Aug 2007
Hi Brian,

The motor i have fitted to the blind is geared it is a PittmanExpress GM9413-3 it just doesn’t seem to have the power to lift the roller blind. I think i need one with more torque. The gearing is 6.1 and has a nice speed for opening and closing but just won't lift on its own.:thumb:

That's quite a powerful little motor. That must be some drag on the blind. Dazzer's idea of spring assist is good if possible.

Failing that the -4 is much slower and so much more torque.

What this always shows up is that we humans can't half push out some energy for a short time, enough to overcome sickiness which stalls a motor.

Are you sure you are getting full 12V to it ?

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Patrick

Patrick

Free Member
Nov 18, 2007
366
11
Liverpool
Funster No
862
MH
A Class
Exp
2 year....Love it!
Hi. You will be looking for a 12 volt tubular motor ( a rare and expensive beast indeed!!!).

If I were you id have a look at the blind roller and see if its the same size as a normal sprung loaded roller blind, if it is buy a cheapo blind and transplant the spring mechanism into the other end of the tube opposite the motor, tension the spring a couple of turns before you attach the blind into position. This will do a lot of the work the motor is struggling with. You might also want to consider removing the heavy weight bar in the bottom of the blind and changing it for a piece of wood.

If you get really stuck pm me with details of the motor (manufacturer and model number) and I may be able to help aquire you a new one. We deal with most of the mainstream tubular motor manfacturers (somfy, garog, link etc etc) but they will only deal with the trade so you cannot go to then directly.

You might want to consider dropping the 12volt system and running a standard 240 volt motor through an invertor they are much much cheaper than the 12 volt jobbies!!


Hi Daz,

The blind is a heavy thermal its made of slats like a roller shutter, its housed in its own steel box with a worm gear drive, this is connected to a 4 mm square bar and comes to a universal joint. I have removed the UJ and have connected the more direct to the drive on the motor gearbox. It’s all working at a good speed when going down it just hasn't got enough torque to lift it at the same speed it goes down.

thanks patrick
 
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Patrick

Patrick

Free Member
Nov 18, 2007
366
11
Liverpool
Funster No
862
MH
A Class
Exp
2 year....Love it!
That's quite a powerful little motor. That must be some drag on the blind. Dazzer's idea of spring assist is good if possible.

Failing that the -4 is much slower and so much more torque.

What this always shows up is that we humans can't half push out some energy for a short time, enough to overcome sickiness which stalls a motor.

Are you sure you are getting full 12V to it ?

Yes Brian, i have tested it with my avo, it is getting a full 12volt I think the problem lays with the amout of drad and the weight of the blind I am thinking of getting a 2.5Nm with a 40to 50 rpm. I will have to use 2 x diods to cut the powerwhen it reaches top and bottom of the run at 2.5 Nm it could damage the worm or the blind its self.
 

dazzer

Free Member
Jul 30, 2007
1,620
102
In my house
Funster No
41
MH
Virtual RV!!
Exp
10 Years
Yes Brian, i have tested it with my avo, it is getting a full 12volt I think the problem lays with the amout of drad and the weight of the blind I am thinking of getting a 2.5Nm with a 40to 50 rpm. I will have to use 2 x diods to cut the powerwhen it reaches top and bottom of the run at 2.5 Nm it could damage the worm or the blind its self.

Hi Pat

Ive sent you a pm about your blind :thumb:

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hilldweller

LIFE MEMBER
Dec 5, 2008
605
36,108
Macclesfield
Funster No
5,089
MH
Zilch Mk1
Exp
From Aug 2007
Yes Brian, i have tested it with my avo, it is getting a full 12volt I think the problem lays with the amout of drad and the weight of the blind I am thinking of getting a 2.5Nm with a 40to 50 rpm. I will have to use 2 x diods to cut the powerwhen it reaches top and bottom of the run at 2.5 Nm it could damage the worm or the blind its self.

It starts as I'll just put a motor on it.

Then limit switches.

Then some smart arse says, well if you are going to do it properly you should be monitoring movement so you prevent burnout if it jams half way or Jan get her tits trapped when it comes down. Got to protect your assets.
 

dazzer

Free Member
Jul 30, 2007
1,620
102
In my house
Funster No
41
MH
Virtual RV!!
Exp
10 Years
It starts as I'll just put a motor on it.

Then limit switches.

Then some smart arse says, well if you are going to do it properly you should be monitoring movement so you prevent burnout if it jams half way or Jan get her tits trapped when it comes down. Got to protect your assets.

or you could just use a tubular motor with all of that built into it and was custom made for the job in hand :Doh:
 

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