2001 Peugeot Boxer 2.8 overheating in traffic (1 Viewer)

fred flintstone

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Hi everyone.
I have a 2001 Boxer 2.8 and have just driven from UK to Northern Sweden, approximately 2000 miles. The temp gauge for most of the trip was about one third form the bottom, didn't seem to move much from there.
When I got to Belgium I was in traffic for 40 minutes moving really slow and stopping a lot. I noticed the gauge climbed to two thirds. I panicked and put the heater on full and opened the windows. This kept it at two thirds but I was a bit shook up by it.
After the jam it was OK until Germany where a similar thing happened in another traffic jam.
The fan was turning all the time, the thermostat appears to be working OK, the heater was really hot indicating there was water in the radiator.
All I can think is water pump..
Has anyone had this issue?
Any ideas and suggestions appreciated?
 

Tootles

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Are the electric fans working?? If not, switch the ignition off, and try rotating them with your fingers. They might be just 'stuck' with lack of use. If so, and you have them turning, check the fuse. It should be 40 amps for both fans.
 

DBK

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Are you sure the fan is working correctly? The symptoms match a fan not working.

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TheBig1

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i would check the fan first then flush through the radiator in case its partly blocked
 

TheBig1

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But let it cool to cold first! DONT be tempted to try and remove the header tank cap whilst it's still hot!.
absolutely. i just presumed the op would realise this. a very quick way to get scolded otherwise

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fred flintstone

fred flintstone

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Jul 12, 2016
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I will double check the fan tomorrow.
I want to flush the rad but have had problems with refilling and air locks in the past. Last one I did was camper with 2 litre peugeot petrol engine. This had a bleed pipe for bleeding the rad during refill.
Do these refill without problems?
Do they have a drain or is it the bottom hose off?
Trouble with this van is that you have to be double jointed to do anything :)
Thanks in advance.
Best ÂŁ15 I spent joining this forum :D
 
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fred flintstone

fred flintstone

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The fans turn easily by hand and the fuse, 35 amp, is OK.
I will probably have to short the wires to see if the fans work. If I short the wires on one fan should they both turn?
If I drain the system does it refill easily?
 

ambulancekidd

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Fans would be top of my hit list, however a chocked dirty radiator can cause the symptoms you describe. A word to the wise though, flushing radiators is seldom effective & replacement is usually required. In fact I've never known a flush to work effectively on a fairly modern vehicle, but it was a common & good practice in the good old days, radiator design has changed considerably since then. If you can reach the front of the radiator when the engine is fully warmed up, a cool or cold centre is a classic sign of blockage. This leaves only a fraction of the radiator to cool the vehicle & the heater would still be working properly or even hotter than normal. If the radiator is choked, try to find the whereabouts of your local specialists & ask about having it re-cored.

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fred flintstone

fred flintstone

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Thanks for that ambulancekidd, I will get my hands dirty as soon as I have had my breakfast. (y)
 
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fred flintstone

fred flintstone

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Well try as I might I cannot get the temp gauge to go above 1/4, now that I want it to. TYPICAL.:mad:
I sat with the motor revving at 2,500 revs for ages and it didn't get any hotter. Fans never came on but they were not needed.
No doubt when I set off the temp will be off the scale. Sod's law.
If anything happens to change I will add to the post.
 

Badknee

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We have a 2.8 boxer and the temp gauge sits at half way all the time, last winter it was a tad lower but not by much. We have done some pretty steep climbs but it's never gone over half way. It's a bit of a pain but if you can run with the grill off (four Allen screws) and if the temp goes up again try the touching the rad trick, it really does work and while your there burning your fingers (joke:whistle:) you should be able to see/hear if the fans are working. (y)

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DBK

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Well try as I might I cannot get the temp gauge to go above 1/4, now that I want it to. TYPICAL.:mad:
I sat with the motor revving at 2,500 revs for ages and it didn't get any hotter. Fans never came on but they were not needed.
No doubt when I set off the temp will be off the scale. Sod's law.
If anything happens to change I will add to the post.
I suggest on the next drive after everything has warmed up and ideally just after driving up a good hill, pull over and let the engine idle. You should hear the fans cutting in, they are quite noisy, or at least they are on mine. It could just be a temperature sensor which has failed though if you have the handbook check which fuse they are on.
 
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deleted-member02

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Fwiw my gauge would barely enter the 'warm' zone.
But.....on rare occasion, when in heavy traffic, as you've described, the gauge would spike and the fan would kick in.
Mine was loud so you couldn't fail to notice it.
I had it thoroughly investigated, conclusion was the abundance of air was keeping it cool for most of the time and the system was in good order.
Providing that the fan works, I wouldn't worry too much, just get it looked at when you return. Enjoy your trip !
 
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fred flintstone

fred flintstone

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Thanks for all your replies. Plenty of food for thought and things to keep me busy over the next few days.
I will go for a run and see how it goes. It is 23 degrees and sunny here so it should get hot enough for the fans.
I think thermostat is ok because it seems to warm up quickly.
That's why I love this forum, so many members willing to comment and help. :)
I think it will turn out to be the fans. It only got scary hot twice, both times in stop start traffic.
I will update tonight.
Thanks again..
 

Emmit

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I have the 'oposite' problem in that my Temp gauge goes to half way immediately on turning on the ignition and won't read anything else.
My garage has checked it and says, nothing wrong.
In your case, you could induce the engine into thinking you've got problems by covering up the Rad. Grille temporarily with cardboard and going for a drive.
The lack of flow through the grille will soon get the water temp. up!

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fred flintstone

fred flintstone

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Good idea emmitdb.
As a side thought my diesel gauge is always fluctuating. Set off and it shows 3/4, drive 10 mins and it shows empty. 5 mins further and it rises again. I have to fill the tank every 250 to 300 miles just to be sure.
 

Flamenca

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Good idea emmitdb.
As a side thought my diesel gauge is always fluctuating. Set off and it shows 3/4, drive 10 mins and it shows empty. 5 mins further and it rises again. I have to fill the tank every 250 to 300 miles just to be sure.

I experienced a similar problem and I found that there was a poor earth connection on the pcb behind the instrument cluster. I wired a new earth cable and since have not experienced any further problem.
 

Lorryman100

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If you have an OBDII scan tool that shows CHT (Cylinder Head Temp) or coolant temp, plug that in and report back on the temps received especially when it starts to overheat. Personally I would start with changing the cheapest and most likely candidate the Thermostat. Symptoms point to a partially open seized thermostat, open enough to keep the coolant from reaching operating temp but not far enough to allow the cycling required when the engine is getting hot under load. When the thermostat is out start the engine and if there is coolant getting blown everywhere then the water pump is ok, 2 checks done and then you can move on to other possible causes.

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fred flintstone

fred flintstone

Free Member
Jul 12, 2016
139
75
lincoln
Funster No
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Pilote P690
Exp
Since 2007 on and off
I experienced a similar problem and I found that there was a poor earth connection on the pcb behind the instrument cluster. I wired a new earth cable and since have not experienced any further problem.
Thanks for that I will have a poke around and see what's what. I am not the best electrician :rolleyes:
I have a multi meter but I have to youtube it every time I want to check anything.
 
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fred flintstone

fred flintstone

Free Member
Jul 12, 2016
139
75
lincoln
Funster No
44,055
MH
Pilote P690
Exp
Since 2007 on and off
If you have an OBDII scan tool that shows CHT (Cylinder Head Temp) or coolant temp, plug that in and report back on the temps received especially when it starts to overheat. Personally I would start with changing the cheapest and most likely candidate the Thermostat. Symptoms point to a partially open seized thermostat, open enough to keep the coolant from reaching operating temp but not far enough to allow the cycling required when the engine is getting hot under load. When the thermostat is out start the engine and if there is coolant getting blown everywhere then the water pump is ok, 2 checks done and then you can move on to other possible causes.
I don't have any specialist tools but I can check the thermostat and the water pump.
Thanks
 
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fred flintstone

fred flintstone

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Jul 12, 2016
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lincoln
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Pilote P690
Exp
Since 2007 on and off
I experienced a similar problem and I found that there was a poor earth connection on the pcb behind the instrument cluster. I wired a new earth cable and since have not experienced any further problem.
I had a quick look yesterday to see about getting to back of instrument cluster (for diesel gauge problem). It looks impossible to get to, are there hidden screws or is it brute force?

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Flamenca

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I had a quick look yesterday to see about getting to back of instrument cluster (for diesel gauge problem). It looks impossible to get to, are there hidden screws or is it brute force?

Definitely not brute force. Mine has a couple of small screws just avove the top of the instrument cluster perspex. However, yours might be different as it is a lot more recent and, I assume, on a different chassis. After removing the screws and pulling the cluster slightly forward it was necessary to disconnect the speedo cable. Before embarking on removing the cluster check that all instrument illumination lights and warning lights are working properly. If they are then earthing may not be an issue.
 

rupert

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sounds like faulty thermostat ..change it and you may improve fuel consumption as a bonus
alan

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