Charlies guide to Waxes. Sealants and Polishes. (1 Viewer)

[Charlie]

This question of wax keeps coming up time and time again. But many it seems are struggling separating what is a wax what is a sealant and what is a polish.

WAX.
This is a product that is usually a paste in a tin. It is used as a last stage product after polishing to protect and preserve the finish. It can be used straight onto surfaces with no preparation other than a deep clean. In short it protects and offers a degree of shine to the finishes.

SEALANTS.
Like wax its applied to protect. Sealants are usually liquid based and do exactly the same job as waxes. Very easy to apply and remove and popular to some.

POLISHES
Polishes are designed to cut and remove a degree of the actual surface. They do this with complex components within them. Some polishes are aggressive and cut fast. Some have low cut rates some are in between. Polishes are to restore and refine finishes but they offer ABSOLUTELY NO protection to the surfaces whatsoever.

Using a polish to do a protective job or a wax to restore and polish will serve NO purpose whatsoever.

It really is important to use the right type of product for the job.

The question has been asked many many times which is the best wax. Im offering my opinion here rather than cluttering up several other threads which will just get confusing.

Firstly lets consider what it is we are looking to achieve and of course protect.
Our vehicles in this case are Motor Homes. Of course they are very big ! So this means we want a long lasting wax. After all a wax of long durability means we apply less often. I quite like waxing but im gubbered if want to be waxing my Motor Home often its just to arduous. So I/We want a long durability wax which offers good solid protection for a long time.

Now I have lots and lots of waxes and sealants in my collection. Ranging form Zymol Concours at over 400 quid a jar. Down to waxes costing as little as 18 quid. Sealants I have less of as Im not nor never have been as keen on them. Fine if you like them and I occasionally do use them but not often.

For me the wax that suits the application we are dealing with here is Colinite 476S. . In may many years in detailing this wax is yet to be beaten on durability. It is exceptional. I have waxes here costing ten times as much and yet none can match this wax for its ultimate durability.

This picture shows the beading on the roof of my wee van Five months after its application of Colinite 476S. Five months and still beading water.

 

[Jim]

I polish my Chrome grilles with a 'polish' (Mer) and they bead for weeks.

 

[Charlie]

I polish my Chrome grilles with a 'polish' (Mer) and they bead for weeks.

Jim.... Polish is polish wax is wax... Sorry but polish offers zero protection it cannot does not and was and is never intended to do so.
Chrome is quite different to paint and general finishes. Its properties are completely different. Chrome reacts to products quite differently and its the surface of the chrome that is shedding the water.

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[Jim]

its the surface of the chrome that is shedding the water.

Why doesn't it bead when its not polished with Mer then? Mer agrees that it's better to wax afterwards but they sell their product as a clean shine and protect. I don't care whether it is wax providing the protection but there is certainly something doing it because when it's used water does bead very well.

Mer FAQ
The difference between a polish and a wax, and whether it’s critical to use both?
It is not critical to use both, but doing so will give much better overall performance and finish. A polish is effectively an ‘all in one clean, shine and protect’ product. By contrast, a wax gives deeper gloss and better/longer protection but without the cleaning performance of a polish.

 

[Charlie]

Why doesn't it bead when its not polished with Mer then? Mer agrees that it's better to wax afterwards but they sell their product as a clean shine and protect. I don't care whether it is wax providing the protection but there is certainly something doing it because when it's used water does bead very well.

Jim cleaning any surface will help. Clean it with a low cut polish like Mer and you have changed the integrity of the surface. It will of course feel slicker. It will now be cleaner. The surface will have changed so the behavior of water will change.

Humour me. Next time you polish your chrome with Mer wax it afterwards as well... Now be gubbered will it bead ! It will bead far more because the surface has once again changed and is now not only slicker but protected as well ! Blimey it will now last forever !

I wonder if this will earn me a free subs for a year ?

Not for a minute am I going into the arena of what manufacturers claim their products can and will do. Sorry but its just marketing blurb. As I have said many times polish is polish and they do fantastic work but never have I used a so called universal product that works. Ever.

 

[Jim]

Maybe it will bead more if I wax it, after I've Mer'ed it But I'm not a great detailer certainly not anal about it, I just like to see my stuff clean and shiny. Mer says it Cleans, Shines and Protects. I believe them, seems to do exactly that for me

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[sallylillian]

So Charlie, I have cleaned my MH and even used a polish remover so have a blank canvas. Assuming the surface is unblemished and the van is only 6 months old. Do I just go straight to a wax or do I get a better and/or longer lasting result if I use a polish first then wax?

 

[Charlie]

So Charlie, I have cleaned my MH and even used a polish remover so have a blank canvas. Assuming the surface is unblemished and the van is only 6 months old. Do I just go straight to a wax or do I get a better and/or longer lasting result if I use a polish first then wax?

Polishing will refine the surface so if you have the time and patience then do it !
The better the finish the smoother it will be when the wax is applied. This in turn means less dirt and grime will adhere to it. The infamous black streaks may still appear of course but they will not only be less but will so easy to wash off with just a nice mild shampoo and warm water.

Time polishing is never wasted if you love your kit and like it looking nice.

Even a brand new vehicle will benefit from a polish !

Jim. If your Mer is working for you and does what you want then ace ! But I trust manufacturers claims no more than I would trust a politician. I used to write as a technical author for one of the biggest manufacturers in the industry and I cannot say to much except what is often written is not...... Well not the whole nine yards.. But as above mate do what works for you !

 

[Charlie]

Polishing will refine the surface so if you have the time and patience then do it !
The better the finish the smoother it will be when the wax is applied. This in turn means less dirt and grime will adhere to it. The infamous black streaks may still appear of course but they will not only be less but will so easy to wash off with just a nice mild shampoo and warm water.

Even brand new vehicles benefit from a deep polish !

Time polishing is never wasted if you love your kit and like it looking nice.

Jim. If your Mer is working for you and does what you want then ace ! But I trust manufacturers claims no more than I would trust a politician. I used to write as a technical author for one of the biggest manufacturers in the industry and I cannot say to much except what is often written is not...... Well not the whole nine yards.. But as above mate do what works for you !

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[laird of Dunstan]

Charlie , im picking up a brand new motorhome soon , what threatment would you reccomend?
I was thinking of washing it then applying colonite wax

 

[Charlie]

Charlie , im picking up a brand new motorhome soon , what threatment would you reccomend?
I was thinking of washing it then applying colonite wax

That's exactly what I would do..

Our van was 18 months old when we bought it. I machine polished it and applied Colinite 476S.

Even a brand new vehicle can be improved with a machine polish but reality says only the really dedicated will do that. Nice wash and an application of 476 will be just fine .

 

[laird of Dunstan]

That's exactly what I would do..

Our van was 18 months old when we bought it. I machine polished it and applied Colinite 476S.

Even a brand new vehicle can be improved with a machine polish but reality says only the really dedicated will do that. Nice wash and an application of 476 will be just fine .

i have used rotary buffers in the past , i used to have my own small bodyshop , i was considering doing the van with a machine polisher, can colinite be applied with a rotary machine?

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[jockaneezer]

I wonder if your chrome is beading due to a film residue left from the polish's liquid "carrier" fluid ?

 

[PP Bear]

Just ordered my first tin. Like to trial these products and by all accounts and reviews, sounds like a good product

Thanks for the heads up

 

[Charlie]

i have used rotary buffers in the past , i used to have my own small bodyshop , i was considering doing the van with a machine polisher, can colinite be applied with a rotary machine?

The thing with waxes... All waxes is that less is genuinely better. All you need is coverage no more. Putting too much on will not only waste product but will make getting the best finish much harder.

So using a machine is IMO overkill.

Colinite can be tricky but dead easy if you use it properly. Apply with a sponge applicator to a small area. Say a wing or half a bonnet. Then buff it off as fast as you can. Colinite does not need to cure.

Most waxes work in the same way. Apply it and get it buffed off. With most sealants curing time is required.

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[MikeD]

Hi Charlie
Where does "Clay" fit into the system.
My boy used to swear by it when he detailed his car

 

[Charlie]

I wonder if your chrome is beading due to a film residue left from the polish's liquid "carrier" fluid ?

Very possibly.. Good observation there !

 

[Charlie]

Hi Charlie
Where does "Clay" fit into the system.
My boy used to swear by it when he detailed his car

Mate take a look in the detailing section. There is a thread that covers claying.. Any questions feel free to ask but best do it on that thread ? I will answer there and it won't take this thread to far off topic .... Cheers

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[lorger]

Charlie I have just purchased a new PVC what would you recommend I do to keep it nice and shiny and easier to clean in the future.

 

[Charlie]

Charlie I have just purchased a new PVC what would you recommend I do to keep it nice and shiny and easier to clean in the future.

As with the above just keep it waxed .. With a PVC its easy as we only have painted surfaces with decals all of which we wax ..

 

[Jim]

I wonder if your chrome is beading due to a film residue left from the polish's liquid "carrier" fluid ?

Could be, but isn't it more likely to be the silicone that they add to do the protect bit of their Clean, Shine and Protect promise?

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[Jim]

Charlie, I've been looking at the Collinite on Amazon, it seems to come in lots of different prices and flavours. Which would you suggest for GRP bodywork and chrome.

 

[Charlie]

Charlie, I've been looking at the Collinite on Amazon, it seems to come in lots of different prices and flavours. Which would you suggest for GRP bodywork and chrome.

Jim 476S is the most durable of the Colinite waxes.. Can be tricky to apply but follow the procedure and its dead easy. There is a thread in the detailing section that describes the easiest way to get best results ..

A tin of 476S is circa £18 on EBay . The tin will do at least ten motor homes easy.

If you can't find the thread and bear in mind I write a few threads on various forums just shout up and I will add it here.

 

[Charlie]

Rundown on the Colinite products

476s . Known as the Doublecoat wax IMO the most durable of not only the Colinite waxes but The most durable wax I have used.

915 Known as the Marque De elegance. Awesome wax lacks the sheer durability of 476 S

845 Known as the Insulator wax. This one is liquid the above two are traditional Paste waxes.

Applying 476S and 915 is a doddle but only if you know how to use it. Follow the steps below and you will be rewarded not only with a super shiney finish but a finish that will have superior protection for a very long time.

Firstly as with all waxes avoid doing it when its hot. It can be done but you will need to follow the steps below and do the job quick !

Apply to a small area at a time using a foam wax applicator and remove by buffing off immediately with a nice clean soft microfibre towel.

The area I usually do is a few square feet at a time. Half a bonnet for instance or one wing or a door. Never try to wax the whole vehicle or the wax will dry and removing it will be a pain ! So get it on the panel and buffed off as quickly as you can then move onto the next panel or area.

Note Colinite does Not need to cure. Allowing it to do so will increase the effort to remove it. Remove it quickly and its an absolute doddle !

On a warm or hot day rinse your foam applicator under the tap. This will aid application. It will not lessen the application nor will it reduce the durability. The water in the applicator will simply dry away leaving the wax on the panel.

If the wax does dry before you can get it removed then use a dampened microfibre to remove followed by a buff with dry one. Again this will not weaken you work nor will it reduce the durability.

On a cold day drop the tin with the lid still on into a bowl of warm water. This will soften the wax up and applying soft wax is so much easier.

It really is a case of less is more. Put too much on you increase your workload and waste product. Get in on and off again just as fast as you can. Small area means an easy job.

Please do not be put off by my words of caution above. They are meant to inform and help with how to get the best from these products.

As I have mentioned before I have many many waxes in my collection and a few sealants as well. Some of the waxes I have cost over 400 quid a jar. None can match the bulletproof long durability of 476 and 915... They just dont.

Out of the 3 Colinite products above 467S has the longest durability. Followed closely by 915. 845 Bieng a liquid wax is by far the easiest to use but its durability is about half that of 476S .

I keep waffling on about durability. This is because here on this forum most of us have large or even huge vehicles. This means the length of durability must be important. Take 845 which has about half the durability of 476S. That of course means the wax will need more applications over a given period of time So we have twice the work to do to upkeep our vehicles.

I have been in the detailing game for far more years than I care to admit. I have trialled not only these waxes but many many others, Mostly I was getting paid to do this and I was given tons and tons of products in order to get real world test results. I honestly will only use the above products on our Motor Home for the reasons above.

Hope this helps !

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[Steve devon]

Charlie , when I get a new car I use a clay bar, with liquid polish as a lube, the I use 3 m yellow top to et rid of the swirls from electric buffers, then I give it two coats of Harley wax, th finish is fantastic, interested to hear your opinion on this

 

[Charlie]

Charlie , when I get a new car I use a clay bar, with liquid polish as a lube, the I use 3 m yellow top to et rid of the swirls from electric buffers, then I give it two coats of Harley wax, th finish is fantastic, interested to hear your opinion on this

Lube for a clay bar should Ideally be a 50/50 mix of detailing spray and water. It is possible to use water with a drop of car shampoo in place of the detailing spray, Polish is not suitable as a clay lube.

There is a thread dedicated to claying in the detailing section here on this forum. May be worth a read mate .

You say you are using 3M tor get rid of swirls left by an electric buffer ? Confused slightly by this ??

An electric buffer or what I call a rotary polishing machine should not leave any marks. It may do if using a very heavy cut polish but a heavy cut polish should be followed up by a polish or combination of polishes to end up with a flawless finish.

Harley wax is fine but will not have the long durability I/We desire as large vehicle owners.

 

[Steve devon]

Lube for a clay bar should Ideally be a 50/50 mix of detailing spray and water. It is possible to use water with a drop of car shampoo in place of the detailing spray, Polish is not suitable as a clay lube.

There is a thread dedicated to claying in the detailing section here on this forum. May be worth a read mate .

You say you are using 3M tor get rid of swirls left by an electric buffer ? Confused slightly by this ??

An electric buffer or what I call a rotary polishing machine should not leave any marks. It may do if using a very heavy cut polish but a heavy cut polish should be followed up by a polish or combination of polishes to end up with a flawless finish.

Harley wax is fine but will not have the long durability I/We desire as large vehicle owners.

I can't remember the the name of the 3m product but it has a yellow top on the bottle, as 3m products are colour coded, my friend owns Harley wax, and has the best Detomassa Pantera in Europe , winning awards where ver he takes , one from the Detomassa family themselves, it was him who told me to do this treatment , so I thought if it was good enough for him it was good enough for a motorhome and a fiat 500

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[Charlie]

My friend a DeTomasso Pantera is now as you know an old car. Mmmm Word ! I should say classic !

The polish I would choose to use on a paint from that era would be immensely different from what I would choose to polish the delicate water based finishes on modern vehicles. Consider also that the Pantera will almost certainly if it is on original paint will have a single stage paint not the Lacquer over colour over base we have today.

In short we must choose the correct polishes we are to use for the vehicles we are to use them on. This is one area where ther is no universal product. Once we arrive at the product we then must consider how hard or soft the paint is. For example German paint os say a BMW will be extraordinarily hard. So we would choose a medium cut polish on a medium hard pad. Japanese paint on the other hand is very soft. So we would select a low cut polish on a soft pad.

Confusing the two could end up in severe damage !

We have a thread where we have and can talk about polishing and the right materials for the right job. Take a look its in the detailing section.

 

[Dazzlin]

First time we have had rain for 6 weeks.
Cleaned van, polished with autoglym SRP then a coat of collinite 476 done back in november. Only cleaned once since as only had a couple of showers.
Had a few showers today in Tafraoute and pleased to see its beading nicely but too dusty on the bonnet for a pic!

Had to clean all the dust from the solar panels though. What is the best way to keep them clear?

 

[FJmike]

View attachment 94244

Had to clean all the dust from the solar panels though. What is the best way to keep them clear?

After cleaning just apply a coat of Colli

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