Jump start remote post (1 Viewer)

May 7, 2013
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Hi we have a 2005 2.8 Ducato. The positive post of the engine battery is almost impossible to reach with jump leads. My question is then;- How difficult is it to fit a remote positive battery post so that should I need to jump start the MH in the future it is relatively accessible
Thanks again & Merry Xmas to all
Ian
 
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IanF
May 7, 2013
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Don't think so I couldn't find one and neither could two guys from Greenflag
If you know differently where is it?
Thanks Ian

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Dec 10, 2013
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Sorry Ian, if the guys from Green Flag can't find it I guess there isn't one there. I only said that because a lot of motors have a positive connection under the bonnet.
 
Last edited:
Feb 22, 2008
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Could use a length of battery cable as a flying lead with a termination on either end , one connected to the battery terminal the other with an insulating protective sheath and a retaining clip in a convenient place to reach.
Not ideal but solves a problem.

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dave newell

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X244 Ducatos don't have a remote positive for jump starting because the battery is already in the engine bay, even though the positive is at the far end and almost impossible to safely get a jump cable clamp onto. Only with the advent of the X250 models in late 2006 did a remote positive connection for jump starting appear in the engine bay. Simple job to fit one if you really want to, a couple of feet of 25mm sq cable with a decent temrination mounted on an insulated block somewhere convenient would do the job. Alternatively a pair of 25mm sq cables from the battery to a suitably sized Andersen plug and a pair of jump leads to match would make it very simple.

D.
 
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IanF
May 7, 2013
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On our 2nd MH now a AutoTrail Savannah which we're absolutely delighted with
Thank you all for your guidance
Ian

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Landy lover

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Far safer to use a professional Anderson Plug to plug your jump leads in to

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For starting a diesel I would suggest you use 350amp plugs
 

pappajohn

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Only drawback using anderson plugs is you need jump leads to suit.

The breakdown vans use them but only fitted to their vehicles for their leads.....the other end of their lead is a regular croc clip.
If you dont have a set of suitable leads to fit YOUR anderson plugs you are stuffed.

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IanF
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Hi Pappajohn I would make up a set to suit my needs with Anderson plugs on one end and normal jump lead croc type on the other. Also plan to get a Battery Booster pack and fit Anderson plugs to it, Can you see any drawbacks to that?
Thanks Ian
 

pappajohn

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Sounds like a plan to me.

And of course, you can stick the leads in the booster pack to start other vehicles with standard battery posts if needed.
 

Landy lover

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Far safer to use a professional Anderson Plug to plug your jump leads in to

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For starting a diesel I would suggest you use 350amp plugs

Only drawback using anderson plugs is you need jump leads to suit.

The breakdown vans use them but only fitted to their vehicles for their leads.....the other end of their lead is a regular croc clip.
If you dont have a set of suitable leads to fit YOUR anderson plugs you are stuffed.



Simple way out of that and the way a lot of recovery guy do it they have 6m heavy duty jump leads - cut them 600mm from one end. Put Anderson on each cut end then you can always use them as a standard set. When you need to use them on an Anderson plugged vehicle just split them and hook in. Simples

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Last edited:
Feb 27, 2011
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I had never heard of Anderson connectors. Could do with something similar myself so did some more searching.
This looks like what we need?

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stcyr

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I had never heard of Anderson connectors. Could do with something similar myself so did some more searching.
This looks like what we need?

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The item pictured is what you need but note this listing is actually just for the bracket (sure you noticed, but just in case!)

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dave newell

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I'd also fit a heavy duty cut off switch in the positive lead, between battery and Anderson plug so that the Anderson isn't permanently live. In fairness the 175 Amp Andersons should suffice as you shouldn't be trying to pass all the starting current up the jump leads. The correct method of jump starting is to connect your leads then start the donor vehicle and run it at about 2000 rpm for five to ten minutes, this will get some charge back into the dead battery to help in starting rather than trying to drag 300 odd amps up the jump leads. If when you do try to start the dead vehicle the starter doesn't spin it over fast enough then give the donor another five minutes at 2K RPM before you try again.

D.
 

jonandshell

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Anderson plugs come in many different types to prevent incorrect connection of differing voltages.
Most I have seen in use on recovery trucks seem to be of the grey variety, but not always!
The colours are supposed to be matched to voltage, eg red for 24v, blue for 48v, green for 72v and black for 80v.
If you choose grey 160 Amp plugs you might find you are fairly standardised for 12volt. I would have a Croc clip termination to add just in case though!
 

Techno

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I had never heard of Anderson connectors. Could do with something similar myself so did some more searching.
This looks like what we need?

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I use the 50 amp version to connect my air compressor or battery charger. I have one at the front & rear.
As my vehicle is an X250 I have the remote jumper point so not an issue
CA_10271310580150-XL.jpg

CA_06291415131501-XL.jpg

CA_06291415140410-XL.jpg

image-jpeg.81879

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Last edited:

Geo

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Anderson plugs come in many different types to prevent incorrect connection of differing voltages.
Most I have seen in use on recovery trucks seem to be of the grey variety, but not always!
The colours are supposed to be matched to voltage, eg red for 24v, blue for 48v, green for 72v and black for 80v.
If you choose grey 160 Amp plugs you might find you are fairly standardised for 12volt. I would have a Croc clip termination to add just in case though!

Quite correct 95%+ recovery will have the grey plug and leads set up as Bill suggested, as do I
Its no Good having red/green/ blue Anderson plugs if I turn up, keep it simple keep it standard
G
 

Techno

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The grey is listed as 175amp same as the red 175 amp so as long as you get the same current rating they should fit each other.
AFAIK the colour is only so you can use them for specific purposes adjacent to each other. As long as you select the correct current rating they should connect regardless of colour.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Durite-Grey-High-Current-Connector-175-Amp-0-431-75/321071878310?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=20140122125356&meid=3fba83dc05ed4842821e8ee2f15f209c&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=121808174429

EDIT Scrub that, close inspection reveals differences!

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Last edited:
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IanF
May 7, 2013
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On our 2nd MH now a AutoTrail Savannah which we're absolutely delighted with
Hi Andy (Techno100) -What exactly is the part shown in your final picture called? Clearly it is the male section of the connector and I want that item to fit onto my Battery Booster pack cables
Thanks Ian
 

Techno

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Hi Andy (Techno100) -What exactly is the part shown in your final picture called? Clearly it is the male section of the connector and I want that item to fit onto my Battery Booster pack cables
Thanks Ian
The male and female parts are identical Ian they locate to each other at 180 degrees . Just make sure you pay attention to the + - markings.
The T handle is an optional extra and can be fitted to either or both
CA_11041517073988-X2.jpg

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Landy lover

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My reasoning behind 350 amp connectors was simply I used to go out to mainly HGV so needed the extra amperage. For the average car /motorhome 175amp should be fine - as Geo says stick with grey
 

jonandshell

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@Techno100 ,as you rightly corrected yourself, the different colour plugs will not fit each other. The difference is in the flutes and ribs.
In the quest for even more varied foolproofing, even the same colours now come in varying patterns!
 

Landy lover

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No it isnt, that listing is for the metal bracket only...and very expensive too.

Got to disagree there PJ this one is a little cheaper http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130882746194?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT but sort and shape a piece of metal then punch or drill the holes in the right place - then plate it - then pack it securely and send it, even second class, post FREE. I certainly would not want to work for the profit left in that job.

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