Can you have a solar panel with no controller? (1 Viewer)

Cossieg

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Friend has been finding his fridge tripping out at about the same time each day, around 1pm. Local company have had a look and reckon that the solar panel is connected directly to the leisure batteries and the high voltage generated at 1pm when the sun is strongest is tripping the fridge. The van is a 2007 Adria and the panel was fitted by the supplying dealer. Friend claims they've been right through the van and checked the wiring but can't find anything like a solar controller of any sort. Is it possible that a dealer would fit a solar panel with no controller and what would be the affect on the batteries if this happened? It's been like it since 2007!

Local company are fitting a solar controller tomorrow.
 

Lenny HB

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It will fry the batteries, in bright sun depending on load the voltage from the solar panel will be between 16-21 volts. Some charging systems have a solar regulator built in if the panel is wired into the charger this could be the reason he can't find one, if it the case it's probably faulty.

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Techno

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Best way to prove it is to disconnect the panel were you think it is connected and measure the voltage on the ends. If there is no regulator is will be close to 23 volts in bright Sun
Edit 21.5volts
 
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In short no and they don't cost that much mane thing to remember last thing to connect is the solar
first thing to disconnect solar or you will burn out the controller
BILL
 

DBK

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The answer to the question is yes, in the sense it could be done. There is a type of controller called a shunt controller which effectively does just that, connects the panel directly across the battery terminals. It isn't the most efficient way of doing it but these controllers are clever enough to disconnect the panel when the battery voltage becomes too high.

No controller means no disconnect so bad installation.

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Cossieg

Cossieg

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Best way to prove it is to disconnect the panel were you think it is connected and measure the voltage on the ends. If there is no regulator is will be close to 23 volts in bright Sun
Edit 21.5volts
Seems the panel is wired directly to the batteries and the voltage measured was something like 20v! Could it have been like this since 2007 and not fried the batteries or other damage?
 

Techno

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Seems the panel is wired directly to the batteries and the voltage measured was something like 20v! Could it have been like this since 2007 and not fried the batteries or other damage
If the disconnected open circuit voltage is over 20 yes there is no regulator. When connected it can be delivering 18 volts closed circuit so yes it will damage electronic components
 

Lenny HB

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The batteries would have fried in a few weeks, if wet cells they would need constant topping up if sealed the emergency pressure valve would have vented , either way then would be dead in a very short time.

Edit:
l would have thought he would have noticed a strong sulpher smell.
Don't see how it could have been like it for 8 years without noticing unless the van has spent most of it's life in covered storage.

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Techno

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The batteries would have fried in a few weeks, if wet cells they would need constant topping up if sealed the emergency pressure valve would have vented , either way then would be dead in a very short time.
I think that would depend on how much current the panel is producing and how much load on the batteries
 

Lenny HB

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I think that would depend on how much current the panel is producing and how much load on the batteries
True OP hasn't said what size panel, if 20 watt or less wouldn't cause much of a problem.

Much bigger type of fridge wouldn't matter when the van is not in use and only a couple of hundred millamp drain on the electrics.

Edit: Just noticed Andy said "running fridge all the time" , but 8 years continuious on a camping fridge!

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Last edited:
OP
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Cossieg

Cossieg

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If the disconnected open circuit voltage is over 20 yes there is no regulator. When connected it can be delivering 18 volts closed circuit so yes it will damage electronic components
Not sure of the size of the solar panel but do know that he has a standard motorhome type fridge so not a compressor type. Get the feeling that people think that without a regulator this couldn't have lasted this long? Friend does wild camp and does use sites so a mix of uses but the leisure batteries are as old as the van. I'm just v surprised that a dealer would fit a panel without a regulator but he can't find anything and the output voltage is v high.
 

Lenny HB

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Dometic fridges have a solar input, could the 12v be wired into that as that would hold the voltage down when not running on gas. It is not normal practice unless you have loads of solar power and a big battery bank.
 
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One of the first things , if it is now disconnected is the fridge still going off but if it's a normal fridge it shouldn't work off the leasure battery on 12 volt surely

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DP+JAY

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If,like our Adria, it is "pre-wired" for solar it may appear that there is no regulator.
Ours has the Schaudt LR1218 fitted under the false floor next to the charger/controler.
There is also an "extra" fuse on the charger which can be inserted to make the fridge run on 12v permanantly. We find this useful on channel crossings.
 

JeanLuc

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There is also an "extra" fuse on the charger which can be inserted to make the fridge run on 12v permanantly. We find this useful on channel crossings.
Sorry to hijack the thread, but can you explain this please - where is this 'extra' fuse and where is it located on the EBL?
 

DP+JAY

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Sorry to hijack the thread, but can you explain this please - where is this 'extra' fuse and where is it located on the EBL?

If I remember correctly it is the fourth fuse from the left on our EBL226 & is highlighted in yellow.

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JeanLuc

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That is the AES Refrigerator fuse - I presume you have an AES fridge? It is not used with manual selection fridges but my understanding is that it should be present all the time if you have an AES fridge.
 
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That is the AES Refrigerator fuse - I presume you have an AES fridge? It is not used with manual selection fridges but my understanding is that it should be present all the time if you have an AES fridge.

Mine is the same. It took me ages to work out why my fridge (not AES) would keep on going on 12v after switching the engine off. I eventually traced it to a fuse being in the AES fridge slot and problem solved. Unfortunately I had killed my battery off one too many times and had to change it. I'd be very careful about having a fuse in that slot if your fridge is not AES.
 

Lenny HB

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That is the AES Refrigerator fuse - I presume you have an AES fridge? It is not used with manual selection fridges but my understanding is that it should be present all the time if you have an AES fridge.
True but with it present with no other power source the fridge does a nice job of flattening the hab battery, pulled the fuse on both my Hymers.

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DP+JAY

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That is the AES Refrigerator fuse - I presume you have an AES fridge? It is not used with manual selection fridges but my understanding is that it should be present all the time if you have an AES fridge.

Yes, AES fridge, but with the fuse in place the fridge is on 12v all the time(unless switched off).
Fuse removed, fridge works normally.
 
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Yes, AES fridge, but with the fuse in place the fridge is on 12v all the time(unless switched off).
Fuse removed, fridge works normally.
Are you sure?

My understanding is that the AES fridge will stay on 12v only for 15mins or so with the engine off (to allow for filling up with fuel) and then switches over automatically to gas or electric.
 

DP+JAY

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Are you sure?

My understanding is that the AES fridge will stay on 12v only for 15mins or so with the engine off (to allow for filling up with fuel) and then switches over automatically to gas or electric.

Absolutely sure, we use it when crossing the channel about 6 times a year.
Maybe it's not supposed to but it does & it works for us.
Ours is a Thetford fridge so may be different to Dometic.

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Lenny HB

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Are you sure?

My understanding is that the AES fridge will stay on 12v only for 15mins or so with the engine off (to allow for filling up with fuel) and then switches over automatically to gas or electric.
Yep certain, thats why I pulled the fuse. Wouldn't want to do what @DP_JAY does 6 hours at 15 amps thats 90 A/H out of the batteries will take a lot of driving or solar to fully recharge. I normally just turn off the fridge on ferry crossing, 24 hr crossing to Greece had a EHU.
 

DP+JAY

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Yep certain, thats why I pulled the fuse. Wouldn't want to do what @DP_JAY does 6 hours at 15 amps thats 90 A/H out of the batteries will take a lot of driving or solar to fully recharge. I normally just turn off the fridge on ferry crossing, 24 hr crossing to Greece had a EHU.
Our crossings are usually less than 3 hours (with 3x110 amp batteries).
 

Lenny HB

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We use Newhaven these days, crossing 4 hr buy the time you are in and out of the ports about 6 hours and only have 2 x 90 A/H batteries.

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Our crossings are usually less than 3 hours (with 3x110 amp batteries).

Ah, I guess if gas or elec aren't available it'll just stay on 12v then. Your 333o amp bank will explain why you're not suffering like I did. I only had one 75amp battery and a few afternoons out with it left on 12v soon did the battery in. Never did find out why there was a fuse in the slot when mine is a manual. I suspect it was put in during the hab check to make sure it worked from 12v and then they forgot to take it out.
 

JeanLuc

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Glad I have a manual energy selection fridge then.
According to the Schaudt diagrams and manuals, the fuse should be removed UNLESS there is either an AES or Compressor fridge present, otherwise it warns of possible battery discharge. I always assumed that the AES fridge would only draw power from 12V Habitation Batteries for brief operation.
 

Lenny HB

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Glad I have a manual energy selection fridge then.
According to the Schaudt diagrams and manuals, the fuse should be removed UNLESS there is either an AES or Compressor fridge present, otherwise it warns of possible battery discharge. I always assumed that the AES fridge would only draw power from 12V Habitation Batteries for brief operation.
Both Hymers we have had with AES fridges it stays on permanently if no other power source. I think the idea behind it is it keeps a supply on the fridge when engine is turned off until gas takes over after 15 min, , downfall is when gas bottles are turned off for the ferry.

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