General Maintenance - DIY (1 Viewer)

PP Bear

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It's a bit of a long one I'm afraid :)

I've been given the task of closing a number of "departments" within our Garrison, as part of the drawdown and move of the REME from both Arborfield and Bordon. We're off to an old RAF base in Lyneham which is nowhere near as good as the facilities we once had, but that's all another story.

Im staying onsite throughout the close down. I shut the officers mess at the beginning of October, so I'm now into my 4th week of living in the motorhome and loving every minute of it. I say living, I mean 5 nights and home for the the Friday and Saturday, before heading back to camp on the Sunday evening to start my 5 day cycle again.

So all this "wild" camping on a remote car park inside the Garrison, had me thinking about maintenance, the winter ahead, leisure batteries and insulation of the pipes around the chassis and how the wiring is holding up etc. I also wanted to adjust the handbreak and take a good look at the discs and pads to see how they're holding up.

With the motor nearly 10 years old but only 25000 miles on the clock meant I didn't have an accurate state of the pads. Sure, I could just see the outer ones by looking through the wheels, but I wanted a full inspection, so I managed to find one of the doors open in the Garrison Workshop. Excellent!! I spent hours here tinkering on car servicing, but the place is now empty and my civilian friend who ran it, made redundant, which is all very sad for the many civilians this move to Lyneham effected, and were also made redundant.

First job was to jack up one side of the rear and remove the wheel for a closer inspection. Now I carry a trolly jack that's rated at 2000kg. The vehicle jack that came with it, is rated at 1750kgs, so you would think that the trolly jack would be more than capable of lifting a corner to remove the wheel. It did it....just and only about high enough to squeeze an axle stand under. Not sure if you've ever tried to remove any of your wheels, either in anger or in practice, but it ain't an easy operation. I'd recommend everyone who would attempt such a task on a real breakdown, to try it first at home and see just how difficult the task can be. Factor in say the rain, at night, in a dark road and the task becomes so much harder. Think most would wait for the breakdown man to arrive to change the wheel, but if you're the type that would do it yourself like I am, then the practice is well worth the time. Just removing the wheel nuts with the issued leaver is near impossible. I used my socket set and a long extension to get the leverage, or I'd have never got them undone. I also needed to use the rubber mallet to force the wheel of the stud retainers as they were stuck fast.

Did both a rear and a front wheel and copper slipped the bolts back home again. Pads and discs are fine.

Next I removed the fridge vents and cleaned them in soapy water, including the mounts, hoovered out the back of the fridge and cleaned the green moss from around the edges of the mounts.

Then out came the leisure batteries for their annual check up. All good there too.

Then I put it over the pit and took a look underneath. The first thing I notice is the weeping sump gasket. Nothing so bad just yet, but now on my list of jobs to do. Also noticed the first signs of corrosion on the front chassis members, so there's another job on the list to underseal.

I examined the many looms and wiring and was quite disappointed at how badly they were insulated. I found wires without any insulation, running across potential knife edges on the chassis, just waiting to be exposed and then shorting out at some point. I also examined the waste water pipes that ran across the upper floor without any form of insulation.

I soon sourced some old pipe insulation and began to insulate all the water pipes, both fresh and waste. I also used it to insulate and secure much of the wiring and made an excellent job of ensuring it runs well clear of any sharp edges, or has the potential to short out at any stage. Also put large tie wraps around the exhaust rubbers. It an old bit of advice from one of the old MOT chappies I've been too. Good advice too, see picture.

Last job was to check the spare wheel. Not an easy task on my Autotrail, as it involves lifting the cycle carrier and removing the large wheel cover at the rear. The tyre is brand new and in excellent condition, but down on pressure. Mine run at 80psi, so I had the chance to use my recently sourced Lidl mini compressor tyre inflator. However I was very disappointed, as it states that it's good for 10 Bar(145psi approx), but I only managed to get it to blow to 60psi, before it had a small hissy fit and simply wouldn't puff above that. So I guess it'll be ok in an emergency, or to blow up an air bed, or my beachball, but useless at maintaining my tyres at 80psi should the need arise.

So that's it. Took me 6 happy hours to tinker around. I've also decided to stay inside the workshop tonight, so I can stay on EHU. Means I can save on some gas and have an electric kettle for faster brews.

Ahhhh, life's sweet and the joys of owning a motorhome. Apologies that it's a long one, but lots to get in...:)
 

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Oct 7, 2015
736
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Hi,
Did you take the pads out completely the reason I ask is our van is also 10 years old with 26000m
on the clock ,My pads looked great but when I removed them found the material was breaking up so replaced them. Pads become hard and brittle after time well worth the £22 spent for the better braking.
 

irnbru

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Jun 27, 2013
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Sounds like you learned a lot too. You have just reminded me I need to put ours in for a service.

Nice photos and its good to see what OPs look like.

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Apr 18, 2009
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Not long enough!
Good job(y)
Ah there's nothing like a pit for a good look around underneath (y) I had a go at putting some Waxoil underneath mine in the summer but no pit had to squirm around on me back, got more on me than the van. So make good use of it PP cos the alternative ain't so sweet:confused:
 
Apr 10, 2010
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Hi PP, I've always understood that it is not good practice to put copper slip or similar on wheel bolts. I thought they should always be replaced clean and dry so that the torque settings were accurate and there is less chance of them coming undone., However, if I'm wrong I apologise for butting in!
 

mariner

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Basic training at Popperhinge and trade training at first Havannah and then Martinique.

This was back in the mid sixties so I imagine it's all different now.

What are they going to do with all the purpose built training buildings?

:cooler:

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Dave and Ginny

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Good job(y)
Ah there's nothing like a pit for a good look around underneath (y) I had a go at putting some Waxoil underneath mine in the summer but no pit had to squirm around on me back, got more on me than the van. So make good use of it PP cos the alternative ain't so sweet:confused:

Ah yes the joy of working from a pit! I changed the exhaust on ours the other week and what a joy that was lying on my back on our damp gravel drive. I could hear my old Nan saying "you will regret lying under that old car when you're old and the rheumatism has set in"

Guess what Nan, you were right :rolleyes:.
 
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PP Bear

PP Bear

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Hi,
Did you take the pads out completely the reason I ask is our van is also 10 years old with 26000m
on the clock ,My pads looked great but when I removed them found the material was breaking up so replaced them. Pads become hard and brittle after time well worth the £22 spent for the better braking.
I didn't remove them, they're the OE set and in excellent condition. I take your advice and thanks :)
 
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OP
PP Bear

PP Bear

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Good job(y)
Ah there's nothing like a pit for a good look around underneath (y) I had a go at putting some Waxoil underneath mine in the summer but no pit had to squirm around on me back, got more on me than the van. So make good use of it PP cos the alternative ain't so sweet:confused:
There are 2 tiny areas that are showing signs of corrosion, so I need to seal these areas, but I'll do it with spray tar underseal, once I've cleaned the area up :)

I remember the advertising for WaxOil and will consider getting it into the inner chassis. Messy stuff like you mentioned :)

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PP Bear

PP Bear

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Hi PP, I've always understood that it is not good practice to put copper slip or similar on wheel bolts. I thought they should always be replaced clean and dry so that the torque settings were accurate and there is less chance of them coming undone., However, if I'm wrong I apologise for butting in!
Copperslip is perfect for wheel studs and nuts. It doesn't effect torque and prevents corrosion and ease of future removal. Used it for many years, both on our military equipment and my own vehicles. Well recommended. In fact I use it on almost every single nut and bolt I remove, it's that good :)

Would never use anything other than copperslip :)
 
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OP
PP Bear

PP Bear

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Basic training at Popperhinge and trade training at first Havannah and then Martinique.

This was back in the mid sixties so I imagine it's all different now.

What are they going to do with all the purpose built training buildings?

:cooler:
Got a lot of our civilian instructors who joined in the mid 60's. Wouldn't be surprised if you knew some of them :)

All the old buildings are condemned for asbestos and haven't been used for some time. The entire camp is going to be demolished and plans to build houses on the site. Same at Bordon :(
 
Apr 10, 2010
548
538
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10,998
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Carthago
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Since Sept 2003
Copperslip is perfect for wheel studs and nuts. It doesn't effect torque and prevents corrosion and ease of future removal. Used it for many years, both on our military equipment and my own vehicles. Well recommended. In fact I use it on almost every single nut and bolt I remove, it's that good :)

Would never use anything other than copperslip :)
Thanks for that, PP. I agree with you about the merits of copperslip and I've used it frequently (just not on wheel nuts:rolleyes:). Thanks for the advice.:)

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Aug 18, 2014
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Hi,
Did you take the pads out completely the reason I ask is our van is also 10 years old with 26000m
on the clock ,My pads looked great but when I removed them found the material was breaking up so replaced them. Pads become hard and brittle after time well worth the £22 spent for the better braking.

Yes Dave Newell always says that he finds more breaking up than are worn out on motorhomes. I changed mine earlier in the year & they were starting to break up & detach from the backing plates.


Would never use anything other than copperslip :)

I had to open my last tin earlier in the year. Only been carrying it round since 1976.:D Hopefully I'll die before I actually have to buy some. :LOL:
 

jonandshell

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The big MOD fire sale continues....:swear2:

How the hell can Lyneham ever replace the TTA and heath at Bordon?:doh:

Lots more houses for the uncontrolled mass of immigrants I suppose.....
 

jollyrodger

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Nice one PPB oh to have the luxury of pit/hoist garage facilities (y)
Just took advantage of sunny/dry weather and done a full winter inspection oil and filters change and also renewed break fluid .and a couple of minor adjustments/tinkering jobs all outside ,and the jack 2 ton trolley that i carry just about copes as you say ,even my big 2.5 ton (getting on a bit) does it but complains a bit and all under ideal conditions .
Different matter as you say in the wet ,midnight ,dark narrow road ...fingers crossed :)

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Jun 30, 2010
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Don't forget to check your Sump for Rust, It's a common failing on Ducatos I give mine a sand and spray on Hammerlight every year. I think it was @chaser that had a sump that only lasted 5 years afore it rusted out
 
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PP Bear

PP Bear

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Don't forget to check your Sump for Rust, It's a common failing on Ducatos I give mine a sand and spray on Hammerlight every year. I think it was @chaser that had a sump that only lasted 5 years afore it rusted out
Now that is good advice, thanks.....I've never thought of spraying or painting a sump, but makes soooooo much sense!! :)
 
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PP Bear

PP Bear

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Apr 5, 2013
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The big MOD fire sale continues....:swear2:

How the hell can Lyneham ever replace the TTA and heath at Bordon?:doh:

Lots more houses for the uncontrolled mass of immigrants I suppose.....
Absolutely, there could never be a replacement for the TTA and there's nothing even near it at Lyneham....it's a blooming RAF camp for goodness sake....we all hate the place. Proper messed over by the flipping government :(

We've lost all our identity as a Corps. That beautiful Westcourt Mess (first mentioned in the history books as being gifted to King Harold) has gone, the camp gone and all the training areas too. The Reccy Mechs have a wonderful replacement.....the runway no less. Utter, utter rubbish and madness.

The camp was all but run down, so lots of plaster covering the cracks, which have already began to appear. Hot waters failed, toilets backing up, no wifi or phone signal. Rubbish accommodation and the worst Mess I've ever had to live in for the past 30 years of service :swear:

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Sep 25, 2009
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since 2004. Tugger 10 years on and off
PP check front wheel arch for rust.Right at the top.mines 11 years old this year.both just starting.wire brushed back to bare metal.two coats of cure rust two coats of hammerite.Then a coat of hammerite underseal.
 
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PP Bear

PP Bear

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PP check front wheel arch for rust.Right at the top.mines 11 years old this year.both just starting.wire brushed back to bare metal.two coats of cure rust two coats of hammerite.Then a coat of hammerite underseal.
Thanks for the tip, it's on my new list to do and look at. I usually get the hose and flush up the wheel arches, but I'm bound to miss so much. I'll have a look as see :)
 
Aug 18, 2014
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Don't forget to check your Sump for Rust, It's a common failing on Ducatos I give mine a sand and spray on Hammerlight every year. I think it was @chaser that had a sump that only lasted 5 years afore it rusted out
The older model must have been better made as mine looks like it is enamelled. As good as the day it was fitted & spotless inside when I had it off recently. Too many are made out of fag paper these days & barely have any paint on.
Just going of topic reminds me of another thing that barely gets any paint these days & that is steel wheels. Have a look through a newish cars wheel trims when you are out & about & you'll see that they are starting to rust - It is as though they only paint the bit you can see through the wheel trim.

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dave newell

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Sounds like you learned a lot too. You have just reminded me I need to put ours in for a service.

Nice photos and its good to see what OPs look like.

Broken Link Removed
Special winter offer on :whistle:.

As for copper slip on wheel nuts and bolts it is a big no no! Wheel bolts and nuts should be clean and dry when torqued up unless otherwise specified by the vehicle manufacturer. Fiat Ducato are specified at
  • M14 = 160Nm
  • M16 = 180 Nm
  • Do NOT lubricate bolts.
Directly quoted from Autodata.
Grease or any form of lubricant on the threads mean the botls can actually be overtightened before a torque wrench clicks which gives a higher chance of stud failure, the lubricant can also lead to bolts undoing themselves, either way you're going to lose a wheel.

D.
 

jonandshell

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Copper slip stops Paint, Green, Infra Red Reflective from sticking though!

You should try removing a Landrover or Bedford wheel when the studs are coated with that bloody paint! Guaranteed to remove the stud more effectively than two nuts locked together!

You are of course correct, Dave, about always heeding the technical instructions of the manufacturer. I remember an article in Transport Engineer Magazine once which stated that oiling will produce double the tension in the stud over an unoiled one for the same applied torque.
 
Apr 12, 2013
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While your cleaning your fridge vents worth checking the frame as on my last motorhome Autotrail 696 g water was running inside the frame and causing damp under the sofa, removed frame cleaned off the tiny bit of old sealer and resealed with Sikafex and job sorted

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jonandshell

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Does anyone smear their hub spigots and faces with a bit of copper slip?

I would say it is essential to provide a barrier to bimetallic corrosion when you have alloy wheels especially.

Alloys have a real habit of seizing on when you need to remove them most! Steels do a good impression of alloys too!
 

dave newell

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Does anyone smear their hub spigots and faces with a bit of copper slip?

I would say it is essential to provide a barrier to bimetallic corrosion when you have alloy wheels especially.

Alloys have a real habit of seizing on when you need to remove them most! Steels do a good impression of alloys too!

Now this really is worth doing, especially if you have hub centric wheels. Wire brush the hub flange till clean then lightly smear with copper slip to reduce corrosion and binding. They will still be tough to remove next time but not as tough as if you don't do it.

D.
 
OP
OP
PP Bear

PP Bear

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Apr 5, 2013
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Hi,
Did you take the pads out completely the reason I ask is our van is also 10 years old with 26000m
on the clock ,My pads looked great but when I removed them found the material was breaking up so replaced them. Pads become hard and brittle after time well worth the £22 spent for the better braking.
Took the advice thanks Funsters and removed all the pads for a better inspection :clap:
Everything was looking perfect, until I removed the last set from the near side front (see photos)....would never have bothered if you hadn't have mentioned it, so gurt big well done for the heads up :clap::clap2:

image.jpg



I had to open my last tin earlier in the year. Only been carrying it round since 1976.:D Hopefully I'll die before I actually have to buy some. :LOL:[/QUOTE]
Used it again today, excellent stuff :cheers:

Does anyone smear their hub spigots and faces with a bit of copper slip?

I would say it is essential to provide a barrier to bimetallic corrosion when you have alloy wheels especially.

Alloys have a real habit of seizing on when you need to remove them most! Steels do a good impression of alloys too!
Did exactly that. Had to use the large rubber mallet to bang the wheels off. More copperslip time we say :cheers::clap2:

Now this really is worth doing, especially if you have hub centric wheels. Wire brush the hub flange till clean then lightly smear with copper slip to reduce corrosion and binding. They will still be tough to remove next time but not as tough as if you don't do it.

D.
All good advice and all duly followed :thanks3:

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Feb 27, 2011
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Thanks for that post @PP Bear (y) Very interesting.

On my first MOT my van failed a a long long list of things. The front brakes being the most worrying. I took it to a local garage who do most the basic stuff. They stripped down the wheels, brakes and everything else around it and cleaned it all up/replaced necessary parts. When they gave me a bill for £30 for 3 hours work (I watched them do it all) I was gob smacked.

I now take it back to them every year and they strip the brakes downs and give the sliders a grease etc etc. I think this is worth doing in a vehicle that doesn't do much over the winter.

My last visit was the scariest however. The year before I had to get one of my Top strut bearings replaced. This year when I went in they stripped it down. I was in the office having a quick chat with the boss when the lad who does my work came screaming in shouting look at this look at this.

You are not taking this van anywhere..... The brake disk had a crack on two opposing sides that was only held together by about 3 mm of metal on each edge. It is a wonder it hadn't exploded inside the wheel and to cap it off the brand new tyres I put on last year after I had the top strut bearings done looked like this.


2015-03-25 15.30.03.jpg


I didn't notice this on my routine and regular tyre checks because it is was not visible from outside the van. I now turn the steering wheel both ways to check the tyres on a weekly basis.

The guys who did my top strut bearing replacement hadn't thought to recommend that I get the tracking done. Due to the massive improvement since the top strut bearings had been replaced I didn't notice that the steering wasn't quite right still.... I had literally just driven 120 miles non stop with my tyre and brakes in that condition.

Got the tracking redone and everything now hunky dory.

Total bill for new disks, pads and tyres including labour £260..

PS: The guys who do my brakes, tyres and other odd jobs are not the same guys who did the top strut. The top strut guys charge me £45/hour...
 
OP
OP
PP Bear

PP Bear

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Blimey @Gromett, you were sooooo lucky with the discs and sooooo unlucky with the tyre!!!

Sounds like a decent, honest garage who charge a very reasonable rate, well done to them we say :)

Had the inner driveshaft gaiter go on the offside front. Took it to a local guy. He spent 31/2 hours in the rain changing it for me and it wasn't one of those split band glue ones either. He did a strip down and replaced it. Charged me £80 for the job. Money well spent I had to admit. He was soaked right through as he had no space inside and I wanted it done in a hurry as was away in it first thing. He put down the job in hand and got straight on it. Excellent service :)
 

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