calling @puddleduck or anyone else who can help please (1 Viewer)

movan

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Hi @Puddleduck , so sorry to trouble you and for the delay in writing this but circumstances at home are making it impossible for me to be on the computer or phone much .... but you recently said that there is a way to jump start my van, possibly, without me having to 'unearth' my battery inside the van on the floor.

I have searched my engine for the contacts but cannot find them.. below are the photos of my engine can you point me to the contact points please, and also give me any idea how to do the jump starting... I seem to remember from years ago that when I put the grippers on the contact points I mustn't touch metal .. or else .. but how do you do that?

There is one photo which simply shows where the mice have tried to eat the fuzzy material lining the engine. :( Thank you so much... :)
 

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Feb 16, 2013
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Don't know your van but would say the red thing is what you are after, red lead on that , black lead on some solid metal on the engine.
Don't take this as gospel but that's what it looks like to me(y):)
 
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movan

movan

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Don't know your van but would say the red thing is what you are after, red lead on that , black lead on some solid metal on the engine.
Don't take this as gospel but that's what it looks like to me(y):)
Thank you.... do you mean ANYWHERE ON THE ENGINE with the black lead? Will I not get a shock?

Also, once the engine starts which lead do I remove first please, or does it not matter... I have visions of going up in a blue light..

upload_2015-10-16_17-26-58.png

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D

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I agree. The red cover looks like it has a + on it.
 
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Will I not get a shock?

Not unless you are holding onto the crocodile clips. Look for the head of a bolt into the chassis for the black lead.

Also, once the engine starts which lead do I remove first please, or does it not matter.

When you connect them connect both ends of the black one first then connect the red.

When you remove them reverse it so remove both ends of the red one first.

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Feb 16, 2013
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Not unless you are holding onto the crocodile clips. Look for the head of a bolt into the chassis for the black lead.



When you connect them connect both ends of the black one first then connect the red.

When you remove them reverse it so remove both ends of the red one first.
You won't get a shock whatever you hold , it's only twelve volts , no different than touching both sides of your battery, you might get a spark or it might get hot but NO shock.
 

scotjimland

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agree.. red cover has pos terminal.. black to any solid part of the engine..

connect pos (red) first

disconnect neg (black)last

and in more detail from Halfords

How to jump-start a car using jump leads
  • Park both cars in neutral next to each other so that they're close but not touching. Open the bonnet; the jump lead should be able to reach both vehicles.
  • Connect the first end of the RED positive lead to the positive terminal on the working battery. Do the same for the other end of the lead for the flat battery.
  • Connect the BLACK negative lead to the negative terminal on the working battery. Attach the other end to a metal (earthing) point, such as a bolt or bracket, away from the dead battery. Some cars have negative jump-starting poles - check your handbook to see if yours does.
  • Check the leads are away from moving parts then start the engine of the working car.
  • After about a minute, try starting the car with the dead battery. If it doesn't work, leave it a little longer, but switch off the engine if the leads get hot.
  • Once you have your car running, leave the engine on for a couple of minutes to charge the battery.
  • Remove the jump leads in reverse to the way you attached them. Make sure they don’t touch together or any metal surfaces. You should then drive for at least 30 minutes or leave the engine running.
  • If you can't get the engine to start, unfortunately you have a bigger problem! At Halfords we offer a free check-up, cheap fitting service and a massive range of affordable batteries!
 

DBK

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I'm not sure about the red thing. No need to rush so be careful! You need to slide the top up and see what is under it. If it is a bare stud or connection and the other end of it is connected to a thick red lead then it is. Anything else then it may not be.

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You won't get a shock whatever you hold , it's only twelve volts , no different than touching both sides of your battery, you might get a spark or it might get hot but NO shock.

You might get a tingle if you're holding them when the engine cranks. There are some pretty high currents around then.

You can definitely get a belt from 12V. It probably won't kill you but you will still know about it.
 

DBK

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You might get a tingle if you're holding them when the engine cranks. There are some pretty high currents around then.

You can definitely get a belt from 12V. It probably won't kill you but you will still know about it.
Sorry, and please don't be offended but that's completely wrong. Not a chance of a shock from 12 volts. :)
 
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movan

movan

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agree.. red cover has pos terminal.. black to any solid part of the engine..

connect pos (red) first

disconnect neg (black)last

and in more detail from Halfords

How to jump-start a car using jump leads
  • Park both cars in neutral next to each other so that they're close but not touching. Open the bonnet; the jump lead should be able to reach both vehicles.
  • Connect the first end of the RED positive lead to the positive terminal on the working battery. Do the same for the other end of the lead for the flat battery.
  • Connect the BLACK negative lead to the negative terminal on the working battery. Attach the other end to a metal (earthing) point, such as a bolt or bracket, away from the dead battery. Some cars have negative jump-starting poles - check your handbook to see if yours does.
  • Check the leads are away from moving parts then start the engine of the working car.
  • After about a minute, try starting the car with the dead battery. If it doesn't work, leave it a little longer, but switch off the engine if the leads get hot.
  • Once you have your car running, leave the engine on for a couple of minutes to charge the battery.
  • Remove the jump leads in reverse to the way you attached them. Make sure they don’t touch together or any metal surfaces. You should then drive for at least 30 minutes or leave the engine running.
  • If you can't get the engine to start, unfortunately you have a bigger problem! At Halfords we offer a free check-up, cheap fitting service and a massive range of affordable batteries!
Thanks Jim.. That's brilliant...

Bit confused as Halfords say connect the RED first and the other posters say the black .. or am I reading it incorrectly? :(

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Sorry, and please don't be offended but that's completely wrong. You can hold both terminals of a 12 volt batt

Ever put the terminals of one of those little square 9V batteries on your tongue? (y)
 

scotjimland

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Thanks Jim.. That's brilliant...

Bit confused as Halfords say connect the RED first and the other posters say the black .. or am I reading it incorrectly? :(

red first is correct.. that's the problem with forums.. you can get conflicting advice. ..

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Feb 24, 2013
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I am sure I have read that if both vehicles are touching when jump starting you can actually die from the shock :Eeek:

Maybe it was a fore runner to the gassing threats, but I am convinced I have read that somewhere :)

Don't mean to worry you Joy, but follow the instructions as above x

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Feb 16, 2013
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You might get a tingle if you're holding them when the engine cranks. There are some pretty high currents around then.

You can definitely get a belt from 12V. It probably won't kill you but you will still know about it.
Sorry to have to disagree with this guy again , but getting a shock is absolute rubbish , the only chance of getting a shock on motors is if you have a petrol and grab a spark plug lead, with a diesel , jump starting, NO chance
 
Jan 22, 2013
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looking at the pictures It appears to be a Renault master, all the information about jump starting is correct but you will need some quality jump leads and a good battery to start her,
just in case you don't know where your battery is? it's between the front seats under the floor, very simple cover to remove with just four screws,
It's often better to jump start direct to the battery to reduce the voltage drop from the front,
try it first from the red front connector , but if it won't start lift the battery cover and jump direct to it,
again stating the obvious red to red and black to black:)

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Aug 6, 2013
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Traditional, old fashioned, telephone exchanges were powered by 50v batteries. All metalwork in the exchange was connected to one side of the battery. The other side of the battery powered everything in the exchange. All work was conducted with the equipment 'live' (people liked to continue making phone calls). Even a conservative, safety-conscious, publicly-owned, company like the GPO / Post Office Telephones / BT did not display a single notice, or write a single instruction, suggesting an electric shock was a possibility. No-one died, no-one received a shock. Current available is irrelevant. The 'wires' or 'cables' leaving the battery in a medium-sized exchange comprised bus-bars made up of stacked flat bars of aluminium. Such an exchange would have EACH connection to the battery made up of 6 layers of 6" x 0.5" aluminium. So the available current was quite high:).

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DBK

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Traditional, old fashioned, telephone exchanges were powered by 50v batteries. All metalwork in the exchange was connected to one side of the battery. The other side of the battery powered everything in the exchange. All work was conducted with the equipment 'live' (people liked to continue making phone calls). Even a conservative, safety-conscious, publicly-owned, company like the GPO / Post Office Telephones / BT did not display a single notice, or write a single instruction, suggesting an electric shock was a possibility. No-one died, no-one received a shock. Current available is irrelevant. The 'wires' or 'cables' leaving the battery in a medium-sized exchange comprised bus-bars made up of stacked flat bars of aluminium. Such an exchange would have EACH connection to the battery made up of 6 layers of 6" x 0.5" aluminium. So the available current was quite high:).
At the risk of flogging this to death, you can get a mild shock off 50v, I've had it from a telephone line in the old days. It was safe because the resistance of the human body is too high to allow such a low voltage to generate a lethal current.

Conversely, you can experience a shock of tens of thousands of volts and survive - but only when the source cannot supply enough current to do you any harm.
 

Allanm

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We have electric fences for poultry and horses, they runs off either a 12v transformer or 12v battery and the pulses through the fence are up to 10,000 volts. You wouldn't want to piddle on one!

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