Solar panel not charging Batteries (1 Viewer)

Scattycat

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We seem to have a problem with the charge from the solar panel not getting to the batteries
I got a local company to replace the control unit last year 'cause we had a similar problem then and all was well for sometime, but it is now not charging again.
The last time it happened I cheched the current coming from the panel on a good sunny day and it was fine, about 18 amps if I remember, but practically zilch at the battery connections.
As I said when the new controller was fitted all was fine but the new one seems now to have packed up.
Any suggestions will be much appreciated
Do you think the panel is faulty, (although the company that fitted the replacement controller didn't seem to think so), or is it that they fitted a crap controller?
TIA
 

Jaws

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An awful lot of controllers, while stating they can handle 30 amps, seem to fail with much more than 10 amps going in to them.
What type of controller do you currently have fitted ?

As a by the by, how many panels have you got up there ? We have 3 giving a total max output of 300w.
In real terms that equates to ( on a really sunny day and with flat/low batteries ) about 14 amps..
For you to get 18 amps I am guessing you have about 400 watts of panel power ?
 

tonka

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It should be a simple test to check voltage into and out of the controller. What are you getting at those points ?
Could the diode on the rear of the panel be faulty or failing. My DIY taught electronics can't offer much help other than that.
A second faulty regulator is a possibility, if it was me I would disconnect the live feed in and out. Let the regulator cool, then connect the battery first and a few mins later the solar input. May do naff all but may just reset things.

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Jun 22, 2012
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Hi Mike

It’s more likely to be the controller than the solar panels however you may have a loss connection coming from them but it is more than likely to be the controller, a good quality controller can make a big difference it’s worth spending a little more to have the right product, I have a large MPPT controller regulating the charge from two 100watt panels and I never have a problem with my three leisure batteries or my engine battery.

I’ve replaced a few of those smaller type controllers that some companies with ones like mine for friends and they have the same results as me.

Hope this helps

Regards

ray
 

Wildman

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if you measured AMPS at the battery then you will have removed one of the battery terminals with the solar still connected. A sure way to ruin most controllers or at the very least upset them.

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Scattycat

Scattycat

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The controller is one put on by a dealer the make is Antarion
. . . . And sorry Hilldweller, you're right, I meant volts.
In fact I'm checking all the connections now and the panel is giving 19.4 volts.
Our panel is a single 100watt
 

tonka

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The controller is one put on by a dealer the make is Antarion
. . . . And sorry Hilldweller, you're right, I meant volts.
In fact I'm checking all the connections now and the panel is giving 19.4 volts.
Our panel is a single 100watt

Sounds like panel is working.. whats the voltage to the batteries on the output of the regulator, bear in mind if the batteries are full it may not give any, so turn on a few lights, fans etc.. If you see 13-14v then it's working.
 
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Sounds like panel is working.. whats the voltage to the batteries on the output of the regulator, bear in mind if the batteries are full it may not give any, so turn on a few lights, fans etc.. If you see 13-14v then it's working.
Just what I was about to say... What makes @Scattycat think the controller is faulty?
My controller is mostly giving no output - because my batteries are usually full already...

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Scattycat

Scattycat

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Hi matey,
On the output side of the regulator when it gets to the panel in the habitation area with everything off is between 1amp and 0.5 amp
Looking at the paperwork that Came with the controller, it looks as though it is only rated to take a force charge of 14.5 volts
So if the panel is putting out 19 volts ma be I just need a better controller.
As I said, it had been working fine before, well over winter and down in Spain in march and April.
May be the hotter and sunnier weather we've been getting here this summer has just been too much for it.
I dunno, I'm no expert
 
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Scattycat

Scattycat

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Just what I was about to say... What makes @Scattycat think the controller is faulty?
My controller is mostly giving no output - because my batteries are usually full already...
Battery this morning reading 12.1 panel in hab area shows 0.0/ 0.5 amp charging with nothing turned on
 
Feb 5, 2009
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Battery this morning reading 12.1 panel in hab area shows 0.0/ 0.5 amp charging with nothing turned on
Ahhh.... I see....
Could it be that the hab panel isn't actually passing on the charge to the battery? What voltage are you actually getting at the battery?

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Wildman

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the panel output may well be 17-19v but the regulator makes sure only around 14v is actually charging the battery the current is boosted by doing this but the regulator will only pass sufficient to charge, once the battery is substantially charged the charge current will reduce. (eventually to zero)

 
Feb 5, 2009
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Just wondering if the hab panel being between the solar controller and the battery is causing a problem.... What make of panel is it? Electrobloc?

This morning when you had 12.1V and 0.5A at the panel, what were getting from the controller output at the controller? 12.1V?

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Feb 5, 2009
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Maybe if you are able, check the four voltages tomorrow one after the other:
1. At the controller - input from solar
2. At the controller - output to control panel
3. At the control panel - battery reading
4. At the battery - battery voltage
This should help show where to look further hopefully
 
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Scattycat

Scattycat

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Hi Mike

It’s more likely to be the controller than the solar panels however you may have a loss connection coming from them but it is more than likely to be the controller, a good quality controller can make a big difference it’s worth spending a little more to have the right product, I have a large MPPT controller regulating the charge from two 100watt panels and I never have a problem with my three leisure batteries or my engine battery.

I’ve replaced a few of those smaller type controllers that some companies with ones like mine for friends and they have the same results as me.

Hope this helps

Regards

ray
Hi, what MPPT controller are you using?
I've looked on ebay and there seem to be quite a few different types,some a cheap as £28 or so
 
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My cab battery wasn't getting it's share from the solar and I traced the problem to the jumbo 50 amp fuse beside the battery, on the charging feed from my Reich E Box having failed. No idea what had caused it, couldn't see any shorts etc, replaced the fuse and it's been ok since. I did have another jumbo 50 amp fuse that was beside the leisure batteries fail about 4 years ago for no apparent reason. I replaced that after checking things out and it's been fine since too (n)

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Feb 5, 2009
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Maybe if you are able, check the four voltages tomorrow one after the other:
1. At the controller - input from solar
2. At the controller - output to control panel
3. At the control panel - battery reading
4. At the battery - battery voltage
This should help show where to look further hopefully
There's lots of reasons why you could be experiencing the low battery indication, but if you can take the suggested readings, you'll know where the volts are actually "going missing" :)
 
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Scattycat

Scattycat

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Maybe if you are able, check the four voltages tomorrow one after the other:
1. At the controller - input from solar
2. At the controller - output to control panel
3. At the control panel - battery reading
4. At the battery - battery voltage
This should help show where to look further hopefully

Checked this a.m.
1. 19.4
2. 8.5
3. 12.5
4. 12.5
. . . and at the cable ends before going to the batteries. 8.5
So, in my humble opinion, I think the controller is knackered,
Unless someone knows better.
So, what size and or make controller should I buy?

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Scattycat

Scattycat

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My cab battery wasn't getting it's share from the solar and I traced the problem to the jumbo 50 amp fuse beside the battery, on the charging feed from my Reich E Box having failed. No idea what had caused it, couldn't see any shorts etc, replaced the fuse and it's been ok since. I did have another jumbo 50 amp fuse that was beside the leisure batteries fail about 4 years ago for no apparent reason. I replaced that after checking things out and it's been fine since too (n)
What size fuse did you replace it with?
 
Feb 5, 2009
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Checked this a.m.
1. 19.4
2. 8.5
3. 12.5
4. 12.5
. . . and at the cable ends before going to the batteries. 8.5
So, in my humble opinion, I think the controller is knackered,
Unless someone knows better.
So, what size and or make controller should I buy?

Why do you think the controller is knackered?
I don't think the numbers indicate that at all. They do however suggest a problem with the control panel.

All the solar controllers I've seen get the power to run their electronics from from the battery. This is why the installation instructions say connect the battery first and then the solar panel. Generally they read the voltage and select where they are on 12V or 24V system. Typically a voltage of 9 to 15V indicated a 12V system and 18 to 30V indicates a 24V system. Outside these ranges the solar controller is confused and goes into sleep mode and does nothing. with 8.5V on the battery terminals of the solar controller this is what appears to be happening here.

I suggest that at the solar controller you disconnect the solar panel, protect the wires with insulating tape. Then measure the voltage on the battery terminals. Then disconnect the wires from the battery terminal of the solar controller, be very careful not to short them out and measure the voltage on those cables. If its not battery voltage insulate them and try to determine why the control panel isn't suppling battery voltage to the solar controller.

Good luck.
GG
 
Aug 10, 2012
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if you measured AMPS at the battery then you will have removed one of the battery terminals with the solar still connected. A sure way to ruin most controllers or at the very least upset them.

not always true, some ammeters you can clip on with out an actual connection
 
Feb 5, 2009
677
783
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A Class
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15 in MH, 15 in Caravan
Why do you think the controller is knackered?
I don't think the numbers indicate that at all. They do however suggest a problem with the control panel.

All the solar controllers I've seen get the power to run their electronics from from the battery. This is why the installation instructions say connect the battery first and then the solar panel. Generally they read the voltage and select where they are on 12V or 24V system. Typically a voltage of 9 to 15V indicated a 12V system and 18 to 30V indicates a 24V system. Outside these ranges the solar controller is confused and goes into sleep mode and does nothing. with 8.5V on the battery terminals of the solar controller this is what appears to be happening here.

I suggest that at the solar controller you disconnect the solar panel, protect the wires with insulating tape. Then measure the voltage on the battery terminals. Then disconnect the wires from the battery terminal of the solar controller, be very careful not to short them out and measure the voltage on those cables. If its not battery voltage insulate them and try to determine why the control panel isn't suppling battery voltage to the solar controller.

Good luck.
GG
Interesting....
If I summarise you correctly, the 8.5V controller output is because the hab panel is only giving the controller 8.5V... As opposed to the thinking that the controller is only outputting 8.5V...

Sounds very chicken and egg... how do you unravel that? :D

Edit. Just realised that the install isn't like mine eg. Controller & hab panel both directly connected to the battery, but rather that the controller is connected to the hab panel which in turn is connected to the battery...:rolleyes:
 
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Scattycat

Scattycat

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Interesting....
If I summarise you correctly, the 8.5V controller output is because the hab panel is only giving the controller 8.5V... As opposed to the thinking that the controller is only outputting 8.5V...

Sounds very chicken and egg... how do you unravel that? :D

Edit. Just realised that the install isn't like mine eg. Controller & hab panel both directly connected to the battery, but rather that the controller is connected to the hab panel which in turn is connected to the battery...:rolleyes:
Not quite, may be I've not made it clear, I'll try again
Out put from solar panel 19v+
Out put from solar control unit 8.5v
At cable end before going into battery 8.5v
When all wires connected up Hab contorl panel shows 0.5 / 1.00 amps.
Hab control panel and seperate reading direct at the battery show the same result.
So, 8.5 volts going into the battery is only giving 0.5/1.00 charge.

Thanks for all your help

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