CONFUSING BATTERY %VOLTS /AMPS (1 Viewer)

gwyntaxi

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Hi all,
I hoping someone can shed some light on my problem,My van is a 2005 Hymer 655 starline,if you are familiar with the Hymer control,as you know,when you press the button for the battery readout,it displays the voltage in habitacion&vehicle batteries,it also displays the amperage and it's percentage.My problem is,when my van is parked on the drive and is on hook up before going away,the battery readout is usually showing 99%-100%,then press again and it shows my battery capacity is 229amps (cos I have 2x115ah leisure batteries),press again it shows vehicle battery 13.6v habitacion battery 13.8v.so away I go I am never on hookup when I'm away,I have a 85watt solar panel sunworks regulator,after 4 or 5 days the percentage obvious -ly starts to decrease as does the amperage,for example,rec- ently after staying at the ballon festival for 5days then movi- -ng on up to Malvern and staying another 5 days there, after
the sun had been out for a couple of hours my batteries read as;vehicle 13.4v,habitacion13.8,BUT,when I check the AMPS
and the percentages they read something like this; 58%- 134 AMPS,what I fail to understand is how the vehicle and hab; batteries can read 13.4v&13.v respectively,which to me indi- -cates that they are fully charged,but the percentage& AMPS are showing they are approimately 50 % discharged, my solar panel/regualtor is NOT fed via the electrobloc 101 but direct from the regulator to the leisure batteries,so I am confused by the two conflicting readings of fully charged volts,and 58% 134 amps.many thanks for any advice in clari-
fying this problem.
 
Feb 24, 2013
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my guess is that the controller is showing the input voltage from the solar panel, in the same way that when at home it shows the charge voltage, I suspect that you will only get up 99% Amps after a couple of days on mains charge
 

Wildman

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the amps measures the current drawn or charged if you are running nothing and battery fully charged then there will be no amps shown. 12.8 is a fully charged battery 13.8 is the float charge from solar. By an hour after dark the surface charge disappears leaving you with 12.8 or there about. Any indication of amp/hours remaining is not accurate but merely a computation of charge in and current drawn over a particular time in conjunction with the size of your battery bank, it allows nothing for leakage etc.

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gwyntaxi

gwyntaxi

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my guess is that the controller is showing the input voltage from the solar panel, in the same way that when at home it shows the charge voltage, I suspect that you will only get up 99% Amps after a couple of days on mains charge
Hi DavidG58, thanks for your swift response,yes it does get up to 99% amps &230 amps after being on hookup for a few hours but what's reall -y baffling me is are my leisure batteries actually half-discharged when I'm getting these low read -ings and if they are, why does the control panel also show that whilst they are showing in this dicharg -ed state that they are reading 13.4volts/ 13.8volts.In other words are they half-discharged or what.
 

Wildman

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the reading you are seeing is the charge voltage, not the at rest voltage of the batteries. Cover the solar panels then see what the meter reads after one hour or so. when it will report the actual not the surface charge voltage. (or check it at night)
 
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gwyntaxi

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the amps measures the current drawn or charged if you are running nothing and battery fully charged then there will be no amps shown. 12.8 is a fully charged battery 13.8 is the float charge from solar. By an hour after dark the surface charge disappears leaving you with 12.8 or there about. Any indication of amp/hours remaining is not accurate but merely a computation of charge in and current drawn over a particular time in conjunction with the size of your battery bank, it allows nothing for leakage etc.
Hi Wildman,Thanks for your response,but,I am still confused as to whether they are discharged or no,as to me with no load on them say after dark then I expect to see a reading of 12.6-12.8v
but I would also expect to see somewhere in the region of 90% and a content of approx 200amps as the solar panels have been trickling in a charge all day.

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Wildman

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we have not had a lot of really sunny days and the sun is getting lower in the sky so charge rates are much reduced a lot depends on how much you are taking out, if it is more then going in the battery will never be fully charged off hookup. Then again could just be old knackered batteries.
 
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gwyntaxi

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we have not had a lot of really sunny days and the sun is getting lower in the sky so charge rates are much reduced a lot depends on how much you are taking out, if it is more then going in the battery will never be fully charged off hookup. Then again could just be old knackered batteries.
Hi there Wildman,I understand what your saying regarding lack of sun /sun low in sky,but I taking much out just the usual pump use little bit of led lighting in late evening,virtually no TV,and I've had the batteries checked and they are A1,its just that I wouldn't knowingly like to take my batteries down to 585 charge every time I'm on a 10 day+ trip other they won't be A1 for very much longer.
 
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gwyntaxi

gwyntaxi

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the reading you are seeing is the charge voltage, not the at rest voltage of the batteries. Cover the solar panels then see what the meter reads after one hour or so. when it will report the actual not the surface charge voltage. (or check it at night)
Thanks wildman,I will give that a try,I am runni- -ng out of ideas at the moment.

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Lenny HB

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As you have a Hymer I assume you have Gel batteries, to fully charge Gel batteries, they need to be taken up to 14.3 volts and held at that voltage for 8 hours before reducing to a maintenance charge of 13.6-13.8v. If your solar regulator is set to wet cells or non adjustable it is probably reducing to 13.8v as soon as the terminal voltage reaches 14.3 so your batteries are never getting fully charged.
 
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gwyntaxi

gwyntaxi

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As you have a Hymer I assume you have Gel batteries, to fully charge Gel batteries, they need to be taken up to 14.3 volts and held at that voltage for 8 hours before reducing to a maintenance charge of 13.6-13.8v. If your solar regulator is set to wet cells or non adjustable it is probably reducing to 13.8v as soon as the terminal voltage reaches 14.3 so your batteries are never getting fully charged.
Hi there Lennhb,my batteries are not Gel, they are lead/acid and the electroblok is set to this,hence my confusion.
 

JeanLuc

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I think with the EBL101 you would be well advised to switch to a Schaudt solar regulator and feed it directly into the EBL if you are prepared to spend the money. I have read of problems using other regulators with later EBLs and even with the earlier EBL99 and 100 the Schaudt regulator gives the advantage of charging both leisure and starter batteries. I think the system tends to give spurious readings, particularly the later LCD control panels, unless the solar output is fed via the EBL.
Either a LR1218 (PWM) or LRM1218 (MPPT) regulator would work well and they are supplied complete with the wiring harness to link them to the EBL. In the case of the LR1218, the 'resting' voltage once the batteries are fully charged and with the panel in good light, is 14.2V.

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gwyntaxi

gwyntaxi

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Hi JeanLuc,
thanks for the advice, I think I should have posted this sooner,as I have recently bought a new sunworks 15amp regulator to replace my sunworks 10amp as I intend to add another 90 amp solar panel and I dont know if it's too late to send it back for a refund.thanks for the advice anyway.
 

JeanLuc

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If it is of any reassurance, I have a Hymer B630 Star-Line (2003) and it is fitted with an EBL99 and the older IT992 control panel (with twin needle meters). I have a 135W solar panel feeding into an LR1218 and directly into the EBL. This charges both leisure (2 x 90 Ah lead-acid) and the starter batteries. Solar charge current is displayed on the charging meter on the panel and battery voltage is displayed as normal by pressing the relevant battery selector switch (leisure or starter). The system works very well and everything is integrated.
 

Lenny HB

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Take JeanLuc's advice and fit LR1218 regulator, Elektroblocks really do not like other solar regulators, some Elektroblocks you can connect another solar regulator to them, but you should not bypass the Electroblock, on some models it is defiantly not advisable . If you bypass it you stand a high chance of the Elektroblock shutting down when on EHU and worst case blowing it up, it's not worth the risk.

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gwyntaxi

gwyntaxi

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If it is of any reassurance, I have a Hymer B630 Star-Line (2003) and it is fitted with an EBL99 and the older IT992 control panel (with twin needle meters). I have a 135W solar panel feeding into an LR1218 and directly into the EBL. This charges both leisure (2 x 90 Ah lead-acid) and the starter batteries. Solar charge current is displayed on the charging meter on the panel and battery voltage is displayed as normal by pressing the relevant battery selector switch (leisure or starter). The system works very well and everything is integrated.
hello again JeanLuc,
thanks for the advice,as i mentioned in an earlier response,this solar system was fitted by Detroit Solar by the previous owner,so I think I Will have to take your advice and look into the possibility of getting one fitted or sourcing one & doing it myself.
 
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gwyntaxi

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Take JeanLuc's advice and fit LR1218 regulator, Elektroblocks really do not like other solar regulators, some Elektroblocks you can connect another solar regulator to them, but you should not bypass the Electroblock, on some models it is defiantly not advisable . If you bypass it you stand a high chance of the Elektroblock shutting down when on EHU and worst case blowing it up, it's not worth the risk.
Hi Lennyhb,
I think I am going to take all the advice offered & fit the schaudt regulator,thanks for the advice.
 

JeanLuc

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If you decide to do it yourself, the wiring is pretty easy and the LR1218 fitting instructions are clear. The biggest issue might be running cables from the present regulator location to the vicinity of the EBL if that is some way away. I am assuming that the present regulator may be near the leisure batteries but the EBL is probably under the driver's (LHD) seat. There is room for the LR1218 on the back of the seat mounting base (self tappers into the steel structure) but you will need to get the cables from the solar panel to it. This is best done by removing the seat, unscrewing and lifting the EBL (you don't need to disconnect the wiring if you are careful) then feeding the cables up through the rubber-sleeved duct in the floor pan under the EBL.
If you decide not to do it yourself, I should take a trip to Dave Newell in Telford as he will know what to do, can source the LR1218 and gives a Funster discount Dave Newell Leisure Vehicle Services
If you decide to do it yourself, Dave may be able to supply the unit, otherwise try Edgehill Motorhomes who sell Schaudt equipment Edgehill Motorhomes Nottinghamshire UK - Hymer or A&N who service Schaudt units A and N Caravan Services : Schaudt Electronics .http://www.edgehillmotorhomes.co.uk/

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pappajohn

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Out of curiosity, how does the EBL determine amps remaining ?
A calculation between the batteries known AH rating and the voltage at any given time.
As long as the batteries ah capacity has been entered at the control panel the voltage relates to an approximation of remaining amps reserve.

100ah battery (no load) at 12.8v.....fully charged 100amps reserve
100ah battery (no load) at 12.3v.....half charged 50amps reserve
100ah battery (no load) at 12.0v.....discharged 0amps reserve
 
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gwyntaxi

gwyntaxi

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If you decide to do it yourself, the wiring is pretty easy and the LR1218 fitting instructions are clear. The biggest issue might be running cables from the present regulator location to the vicinity of the EBL if that is some way away. I am assuming that the present regulator may be near the leisure batteries but the EBL is probably under the driver's (LHD) seat. There is room for the LR1218 on the back of the seat mounting base (self tappers into the steel structure) but you will need to get the cables from the solar panel to it. This is best done by removing the seat, unscrewing and lifting the EBL (you don't need to disconnect the wiring if you are careful) then feeding the cables up through the rubber-sleeved duct in the floor pan under the EBL.
If you decide not to do it yourself, I should take a trip to Dave Newell in Telford as he will know what to do, can source the LR1218 and gives a Funster discount Dave Newell Leisure Vehicle Services
If you decide to do it yourself, Dave may be able to supply the unit, otherwise try Edgehill Motorhomes who sell Schaudt equipment Edgehill Motorhomes Nottinghamshire UK - Hymer or A&N who service Schaudt units A and N Caravan Services : Schaudt Electronics .
Hi Phillip, as you say the Electroblok is under the passenger side on my van (It's RHD) and the existing sunworks reg. is on the wall behind the drivers' seat alongside the window so a fair way from the Electroblok,I am going to be in LLandrindod wells for bank hol. w/end so I might just go the extra few miles to A&N as I don't feel confident enough to risk rendering the E/blok useless, which may well happen.many thanks for all the advice/help.gwyntaxi

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Mar 26, 2009
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A calculation between the batteries known AH rating and the voltage at any given time.
As long as the batteries ah capacity has been entered at the control panel the voltage relates to an approximation of remaining amps reserve.

100ah battery (no load) at 12.8v.....fully charged 100amps reserve
100ah battery (no load) at 12.3v.....half charged 50amps reserve
100ah battery (no load) at 12.0v.....discharged 0amps reserve

Thanks John.(y)
 
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gwyntaxi

gwyntaxi

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Hi pappajohn, thanks for that,it's all beginning to make sense now.
 
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Take JeanLuc's advice and fit LR1218 regulator, Elektroblocks really do not like other solar regulators, some Elektroblocks you can connect another solar regulator to them, but you should not bypass the Electroblock, on some models it is defiantly not advisable . If you bypass it you stand a high chance of the Elektroblock shutting down when on EHU and worst case blowing it up, it's not worth the risk.
Sorry - bit late to the party on this one.

lennyhb & JeanLuc give good advice on the EBL range in general. However, for the very specific case of the EBL99, there is more flexibility.

What follows isn't especially aimed at the OP but is just general information for anyone adding solar panels. It applies to the EBL99 only. If you have a three digit EBL model number you should either follow the advice given above or contact Schault for clarification before proceeding.

I believe the EBL99 is the most basic model that is still in production, but it is fitted to a great many continental built motorhomes out there. Because of what I wanted to do with my panels, neither the LR1218 nor the LRM1218 were suitable, so I emailed Udo Lang at Schaudt to seek advice.

Udo's response was that for the EBL99, it really didn't matter what solar controller was used, neither did it matter whether it was connected via the EBL or direct to the leisure batteries. If you do connect to the EBL, there are two additional charger inputs, one labelled for solar, plus an additional charger connection. You can use either or both to connect your panels. These connections are there just as an easy way to make the connections & as pointed out above, have the additional advantage of directing the panel output to both leisure & solar batteries without any additional connections or equipment.

If your panel display is like mine & shows battery voltage only, all is well. If it also shows either charge current or 'estimated state of charge', then input from the solar panels will be ignored unless you do connect via the EBL.

As an aside (& picking up on the point that Wildman made), any 'state of charge' display that relies solely on measuring battery voltage will be wildly inaccurate & misleading when solar panels are connected & charging. The display will be influenced by the output voltage of the solar controller as much as by the battery voltage & will give an over-optimistic reading until after the sun sets. At this point, it will now under-read, because by now you will have the lights on as a minimum, so will be reading a battery under some load.
 

Techno

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EBL 226 is also ok to ignore for solar regulator
In fact Udo advised NOT to go through the EBL as I was installing 300 watts via an mppt which can output over 22amps and the EBL cannot cope with that lol
 
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gwyntaxi

gwyntaxi

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Sorry - bit late to the party on this one.

lennyhb & JeanLuc give good advice on the EBL range in general. However, for the very specific case of the EBL99, there is more flexibility.

What follows isn't especially aimed at the OP but is just general information for anyone adding solar panels. It applies to the EBL99 only. If you have a three digit EBL model number you should either follow the advice given above or contact Schault for clarification before proceeding.

I believe the EBL99 is the most basic model that is still in production, but it is fitted to a great many continental built motorhomes out there. Because of what I wanted to do with my panels, neither the LR1218 nor the LRM1218 were suitable, so I emailed Udo Lang at Schaudt to seek advice.

Udo's response was that for the EBL99, it really didn't matter what solar controller was used, neither did it matter whether it was connected via the EBL or direct to the leisure batteries. If you do connect to the EBL, there are two additional charger inputs, one labelled for solar, plus an additional charger connection. You can use either or both to connect your panels. These connections are there just as an easy way to make the connections & as pointed out above, have the additional advantage of directing the panel output to both leisure & solar batteries without any additional connections or equipment.

If your panel display is like mine & shows battery voltage only, all is well. If it also shows either charge current or 'estimated state of charge', then input from the solar panels will be ignored unless you do connect via the EBL.

As an aside (& picking up on the point that Wildman made), any 'state of charge' display that relies solely on measuring battery voltage will be wildly inaccurate & misleading when solar panels are connected & charging. The display will be influenced by the output voltage of the solar controller as much as by the battery voltage & will give an over-optimistic reading until after the sun sets. At this point, it will now under-read, because by now you will have the lights on as a minimum, so will be reading a battery under some load.

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gwyntaxi

gwyntaxi

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many thanks for your advice, I think I 've got it sorted now
 
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gwyntaxi

gwyntaxi

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Sorry - bit late to the party on this one.

lennyhb & JeanLuc give good advice on the EBL range in general. However, for the very specific case of the EBL99, there is more flexibility.

What follows isn't especially aimed at the OP but is just general information for anyone adding solar panels. It applies to the EBL99 only. If you have a three digit EBL model number you should either follow the advice given above or contact Schault for clarification before proceeding.

I believe the EBL99 is the most basic model that is still in production, but it is fitted to a great many continental built motorhomes out there. Because of what I wanted to do with my panels, neither the LR1218 nor the LRM1218 were suitable, so I emailed Udo Lang at Schaudt to seek advice.

Udo's response was that for the EBL99, it really didn't matter what solar controller was used, neither did it matter whether it was connected via the EBL or direct to the leisure batteries. If you do connect to the EBL, there are two additional charger inputs, one labelled for solar, plus an additional charger connection. You can use either or both to connect your panels. These connections are there just as an easy way to make the connections & as pointed out above, have the additional advantage of directing the panel output to both leisure & solar batteries without any additional connections or equipment.

If your panel display is like mine & shows battery voltage only, all is well. If it also shows either charge current or 'estimated state of charge', then input from the solar panels will be ignored unless you do connect via the EBL.

As an aside (& picking up on the point that Wildman made), any 'state of charge' display that relies solely on measuring battery voltage will be wildly inaccurate & misleading when solar panels are connected & charging. The display will be influenced by the output voltage of the solar controller as much as by the battery voltage & will give an over-optimistic reading until after the sun sets. At this point, it will now under-read, because by now you will have the lights on as a minimum, so will be reading a battery under some load.
Many thanks for your advice I think I've got it sorted now,hpoefully.
 

Techno

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@gwyntaxi
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