iBoost wins again. (1 Viewer)

MikeandCarolyn

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Once again we have internet in van when 'madame' in the Aceuil assured us that no one had ever got wifi on our pitch :thumb:
I also learn't a new word 'Amplificateur' which is what iBoost is ::bigsmile:

Mike
 

laneside

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Yep i Boost rules, just back from the Regatta field at Bridlington and had fon almost all of the time and what was most surprising to get the best signal it was pointing way out to sea.
 

laneside

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I am posting this using BT Openzone via my i Boost tucked away in a wooded valley in Todmorden and as the picture shows not a building in sight. On the signal guide lights I have a red light on permanent and the second orange one flashing on and off a speed test shows 5.5 Mbps.

Just out of interest our neighbours at Bridlington had the old directional booster from motorhome wifi and that seemed to pull in an even better signal than the current model albeit it could only be used on one computer at a time via USB.
 

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May 8, 2011
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I am posting this using BT Openzone via my i Boost tucked away in a wooded valley in Todmorden and as the picture shows not a building in sight. On the signal guide lights I have a red light on permanent and the second orange one flashing on and off a speed test shows 5.5 Mbps.

Just out of interest our neighbours at Bridlington had the old directional booster from motorhome wifi and that seemed to pull in an even better signal than the current model albeit it could only be used on one computer at a time via USB.

I could never figure out how anyone could possibly see the LEDs on this. However I had always put mine on the outside of the van and not the inside. DOH!:Blush:::Doh:

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Bluemooner

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Really impressed with my Iboost first time in France with it and I had a problem emailed them got a reply really quickly sorted (me being thick) I was also told you can't get wifi on your pitch and I did :thumb:
 

Chris

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My iboost has paid for itself many, many times over:thumb:
 

Heyupluv

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I am posting this using BT Openzone via my i Boost tucked away in a wooded valley in Todmorden and as the picture shows not a building in sight. On the signal guide lights I have a red light on permanent and the second orange one flashing on and off a speed test shows 5.5 Mbps.

Just out of interest our neighbours at Bridlington had the old directional booster from motorhome wifi and that seemed to pull in an even better signal than the current model albeit it could only be used on one computer at a time via USB.

That's true Alan:thumb:

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laneside

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Mel if Addie reads this post we may get to know why the older type pulled in a better signal than our iBoosters, just for curiosity sake
 
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2657

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Never had much success with mine, the old directional one,got as good a signal on the computer without it in most cases. I did try in several locations and the results were at best a minimal improvement, gave up with it in the end. My theory is that it depends on the quality of the internal wifi 'gubbins' and tablets do not possibly have the best, but I am obviously no expert.
 
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MikeandCarolyn

MikeandCarolyn

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Mel if Addie reads this post we may get to know why the older type pulled in a better signal than our iBoosters, just for curiosity sake


I still have an old USB Omni booster fastened to bike rack support and use it if iBoost can't 'line of sight' ::bigsmile:

Mike

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D

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Really pleased with ours as well. We have the omni one and so far every time I've used it, it has picked up networks that our phones/ipads haven't. Best example so far was last weekend at the Isle of Wight festival we had a BT wifi connection with 4 of us connected at the same time and it was faster than I've ever known BT wifi to be.
 

Addie

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Thank you everyone for your feedback and comments :thumb:

In answer to the questions;

Mel if Addie reads this post we may get to know why the older type pulled in a better signal than our iBoosters, just for curiosity sake

It depends how you're measuring 'better' - USB products will almost always over report a high signal strength %, I've known some to have just 4 different % stored in the software - 23%, 52%, 76% and 99%. Because the iBoost is regulated for EU use its power output is pretty consistent the USB products can be a bit hit and miss - If you open the USB products up there really isn't a lot to them!

Everyone's experience of WiFi varies and because you are often connecting to hot spots over which you have no control you don't know which tool (WiFi booster) might be best for the job. The different characteristics of each mean that some will perform better in a given situation, but poorer in another.


Never had much success with mine, the old directional one,got as good a signal on the computer without it in most cases. I did try in several locations and the results were at best a minimal improvement, gave up with it in the end. My theory is that it depends on the quality of the internal wifi 'gubbins' and tablets do not possibly have the best, but I am obviously no expert.

Couple of reasons for this - if you plugged the device in before installing the drivers, Windows will have installed its own - not likely to be the high power version. The other issue could be the power (amps) output of your USB socket - some are software configurable in the bios. Or, you just have an exceptional laptop (some US laptops come with high power adapters which should be software limited for the EU).
 
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2657

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Thank you everyone for your feedback and comments :thumb:

In answer to the questions;



It depends how you're measuring 'better' - USB products will almost always over report a high signal strength %, I've known some to have just 4 different % stored in the software - 23%, 52%, 76% and 99%. Because the iBoost is regulated for EU use its power output is pretty consistent the USB products can be a bit hit and miss - If you open the USB products up there really isn't a lot to them!

Everyone's experience of WiFi varies and because you are often connecting to hot spots over which you have no control you don't know which tool (WiFi booster) might be best for the job. The different characteristics of each mean that some will perform better in a given situation, but poorer in another.




Couple of reasons for this - if you plugged the device in before installing the drivers, Windows will have installed its own - not likely to be the high power version. The other issue could be the power (amps) output of your USB socket - some are software configurable in the bios. Or, you just have an exceptional laptop (some US laptops come with high power adapters which should be software limited for the EU).

Thanks for the info, to be honest I haven't attempted to use it for a while, haven't really needed to as site wifi has been good or i have been using 3g dongles. Thinking about things(memories not what it was) I did do a comparative test with some friends who both had tablets and it did show a significant improvement but my laptop picked up the signal OK anyway.

I haven't got the booster with me at the moment so I can't try and fiddle but as far as i can recall I followed the installation instructions, my booster has a ralink network adaptor(not sure of terminology).I have looked through the list of drivers and cannot find anything labelled ralink, what would the proper drivers be labelled?

I would not have a clue how to alter the power output of a USB socket....BIOS is another strictly verboten place for me ::bigsmile:

My laptop has the following;

Intel wifi link 5100AGN

and Realtek PCLE Family Controller

Thanks for your help both now and in the past and even though I have not had a great result with this booster I would still recommend your products and service to anyone.

Booster bought in 2011 and I have been through the procedures of switching off the internal wifi card etc.

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Addie

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I have looked through the list of drivers and cannot find anything labelled ralink, what would the proper drivers be labelled?

I would uninstall any trace of the device on your system. Ideally with the device connected via USB, navigate to your Windows Device Manager, right click and remove / uninstall the device (make sure you don't uninstall your built in adapter by mistake!).

The Ralink drivers have changed quite a bit - we have only ever sold devices with the Ralink 3070 chipset.

To download them follow the link below and choose the third option named:

'USB (RT2870/ RT2770/ RT3X7X/ RT537X/ RT5572)'

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I would uninstall any trace of the device on your system. Ideally with the device connected via USB, navigate to your Windows Device Manager, right click and remove / uninstall the device (make sure you don't uninstall your built in adapter by mistake!).

The Ralink drivers have changed quite a bit - we have only ever sold devices with the Ralink 3070 chipset.

To download them follow the link below and choose the third option named:

'USB (RT2870/ RT2770/ RT3X7X/ RT537X/ RT5572)'

Broken Link Removed

I'm a bit thick on this game, but only have an ipad at the moment, so how does all this downloading and USB and stuff work , can't I use these wifi thingies without having it connected to a laptop?:Doh:
 

Addie

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I'm a bit thick on this game, but only have an ipad at the moment, so how does all this downloading and USB and stuff work , can't I use these wifi thingies without having it connected to a laptop?:Doh:

You cannot use a USB connected device with an iPad or tablet - the same way you cannot attach a printer or scanner, you cannot attach a WiFi antenna directly.

If you were looking at our product range, you'd need to consider an iBoost system which overcomes the shortcomings of tablets.

Hope this helps.

Adam

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Feb 16, 2013
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You cannot use a USB connected device with an iPad or tablet - the same way you cannot attach a printer or scanner, you cannot attach a WiFi antenna directly.

If you were looking at our product range, you'd need to consider an iBoost system which overcomes the shortcomings of tablets.

Hope this helps.

Adam

Which one is that?
 

laneside

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We have the iboost pro d8 for use with our i pad and very suited with it so far in England if it performs nearly so good in France we will be chuffed to bits

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